Kay El

I expected to be in the infamously massive and modern capital at some point but not this soon. As a lot of decisions come to be, it was made in but a flash (after a rather tumultuous prior couple of days).
Still in Kuala Kangsar, my usual alarm had me semi-conscious but some persistent stomach pain and a lack of sleep due to possible bed bug related itching had me also quickly reaching for the "dismiss" button and grabbing another few hours of sleep; ended up just managing to make it out of the room by 12p checkout.

Did some online sleuthing and found the last bus from Ipoh to Tanah Rata (Cameron Highlands) was at 7p; no sweat, plenty of time. At least it did seem so…
My fancy expensive bookstore map had an intriguing yellow line drawn from K.Kangsar to Ipoh that was quite direct; halved the distance compared to route 1. The curious part was that this didn’t appear on usually reliable Google Maps. I investigated at the tourist information center where plenty of time was wasted having them first understand where they live even looks like on a map and then after that, letting them have a debate on whether the road exists or not. No real conclusion arrived, I decided to take the safe bet and go along the signed route 1. Stopped for laksa soup as my stomach had settled (but later complained again). Usual afternoon rain arrived and fortunately found cover. under a bridge. Was oddly a cold rain: one I was not keen to ride in; I waited it out for over an hour. Later on down 1, heard the now familiar tune of Indian ceremonial instruments and saw a Hindu temple that seemed ripe to investigate. Ran into the temple priest/leader who spoke great English and had a peculiar interest in California fiscal policy. Invited me in in the usual open and friendly Indian way mentioning that my presence was an honor and to feel free taking any pictures; gotta love it.

You can imagine though, after all this, time was no longer very plentiful. Glancing at my bike computer I realized I still had 25k to go but only an hour fifteen to do it in. I felt it was hopeless, then noticed my 28km/hr speed and felt I could do it so I continued to press on (not like there was much choice anyway). I arrived in Ipoh about 10 minutes til but as I’d feared in my head, there was no locating the bus station in 10 minutes, the city was massive and confusing. Short stop at an internet cafe to take a rest and study the Google Map for the city so I could now find a place to crash. My minimalist hand drawn map guidebook indicated a YMCA with 15R dorm beds right across from a large park; shouldn’t be too hard to find I imagined. With two maps, two frustrating hours in the dark and too many requests for directions, I finally arrived at the YMCA.
My hopes of a 15R dorm bed though were a bit high as apparently they were no longer. An extremely gruff tired looking man at the desk informed me of 55R private double rooms available and that there was absolutely nothing cheaper available (including, in his audacity, to claim nothing cheaper in the whole city). The guy was a tremendous jerk; talking with his friend and looking in my direction I’m sure nothing nice was said. This is why the next action was all the more strange: upon remaining polite and saying "thank you anyway" and mounting my bicycle ready to leave, the man comes back outside and indicates to me "come, come". He walks me to the building next door which has a lobby sort of room with a few couches and he points to the vinyl one offering it for sleep. Why this change of heart, I have no clue, especially after the sincere gruffness but regardless, I am more than happy to cease my frustrating search through the city and rest my head. Wasn’t bad, I even had a shower to use and couldn’t argue with the price.

Started the day early, mostly to vamoose before people would see my vagrant self making residence in the YMCA lobby. The city seemed a lot different in the day time but still horrendously confusing. Signage is terrible and the main streets are one way. I really do despise Ipoh. To appease my spirits, I sought out dim sum which was a delicious gift to myself. I chose the most crowded place I could find, every table filled with Chinese families having breakfast. Entering I suddenly turned intimidated though realizing I had no idea how this even worked and couldn’t occupy a table with just myself. Fortunately, I got the attention of a nice Chinese woman who I kindly and coyly requested instructions on what exactly I was supposed to do. If there’s one thing I’ve learned it’s to let go of your pride and just let others help you.
Visited a Chinese clinic as well to have the doctor check out my leg (football injury) as there was still a bump that was painful to the touch. He seemed to think it was from internal bleeding and there was a clot now; nothing to be worried about though he says prescribing to me simple anti-inflammatory and some special enzyme (serratiopeptidase) which I thought rather exciting considering I’d never been prescribed an enzyme before. Could be all in my head but the bump seems already much smaller and less painful (enzyme power!).
Another longer than expected confusing ride through the city to the bus station (or at least A bus station which I later found out). Bus to Cameron Highlands left at 11a, no problem, ticket was cheap too, nice. Only problem, my trend of finding the assholes to talk to was continuing. The man behind the barred and glassed in counter was so hostile and unhelpful it could possibly be my worst experience yet. Even just asking the times the bus left and the price the man already seemed angry at me but when I mentioned I had a bicycle, woo, it was over. He quickly went into a fevered tone informing me "NO BICYCLE!". But "I can take it apart" I explained and "I’ve taken it on other buses before" I pleaded and finally my last ditch effort of offering to buy multiple tickets to cover for the bicycle. When not even this worked on the guy, I knew it was hopeless. I returned to a position in front of my bicycle resting my weight on it a bit and treating the space as if it was my personal office to where I would have space to think a bit. Even now I’m surprised at how quick this thinking came about but I basically just said screw it, I’m going straight to KL (and by bus). Exiting my "office" and back to the insanely rude bus guy, I asked about buses to KL. "Other station!" I was jabbed. Crap, another station, ok. Silly me for asking I guess but I inquired about how to get to this station. This was apparently just too much for this gentleman as his grimace somehow turned darker, lowering his head and exclaiming "I cannot tell you", then throwing up his arms, backing away slowly out of the booth and to his area of sulkdom where he lit up a cigarette. Hard to keep any semblance of a positive attitude after something like this and especially disconcerting when you have no travel companion to discuss how crazy that was and then laugh about it. I wanted out of this damn city more than ever now.
Of course the city had to have the last laugh, the second bus station was not on any of the maps I had and ended up being 15k south of the city center (whoever planned this horrendous city is some real sadist). With the help of a fortunately and refreshingly nice gas station cashier (who was a woman I might add, I always have just fine interactions with women, its men who give me the problems), I found my way to Medan Gopeng bus station, apparently the main station with service to KL.
Total opposite of the interaction and atmosphere at the other station; several very loud ticket agents vied for my attention and were eager to let my money pass onto them. The bike was no problem whatsoever to them and hell, I even loaded it into the luggage area of the bus myself (and it fit no problem).
Relaxed in a very surprisingly comfortable AC bus, I finally could start to come down from the last couple days. Headphones on, chair reclined, gaze set on the limestone hills.
Kuala Lumpur is huge; its massive. The sprawl started 20k outside the city center. I had wondered a bit what I would do being dropped off at the bus station with exactly ZERO information about where I was or where to stay but figured it would just work out (which it did). The bus made its stop prior to the bus station strangely, dumping us passengers off at a traffic island which I was forced to use as the location to rebuild the bike (I’m sure turning it into a stage for passersby to look although I never looked to confirm this).
The main street we were on was one way so it wasn’t difficult to decide which direction to head. I already started noticing all sorts of hotels, both ritzy and backpacker. Comfortingly, in KL things are much more "normal" in the sense that there is a traveler scene built up in the surrounding area of the bus station (which I’ve learned now is the Bukit Bintang area). So I did was I had done many times before, cruise about until I found the smattering of accommodation options a couple blocks off the main street for some quiet. Settled on "Trekkers Lodge" which has dorm beds for 23R a night which is a nice price but consider the free internet and breakfast and very pleasant kitchen and lounge area, its quite the deal. Just out the door I can see both the KL Tower and Petronas Towers which really do look spectacular at night.
I’ve only been here a short time but I’ve already acquired quite the fondness to the city. It’s very walkable and there are light rail options everywhere! I’m happy to take a bike break and take advantage of the great public transit. All this on top of the cheap lodging and tasty cheap food makes the city a clear winner for me.
Tomorrow I’m thinking of picking up a transit pass and just exploring the light rail system seeing where I end up. I’m here for the next five nights so plenty of time to explore!

12.Mar.09 South East Asia 2009