Famous David: Parit Buntar

Had a nice final day on Penang teaming up with the German cyclists I met, Chris and Franz. Incidentally ran into them at the local high end bike shop where I was shopping for 700Cx35 tubes (which have been a royal pain to find and have yet to be sourced; settled with 700Cx25 for lack of better options). Splurged on some Kool Stop brake pads as well; since the rains, my braking performance has been rather awful. What a difference, should’ve done it sooner!

Chris and Franz had all the Penang knowledge, where I had none, so I was lead on their tour through the city. Checked out the malls which are frighteningly Western (and chilly thanks to the enormous AC system). Finally was able to purchase a Malaysia map (although overpriced). I was lucky enough to be let in on quite the secret for cheap and delicious vegetarian eats (and all you can eat!) in Penang, Annalakshmi Temple of Fine Arts. All the waiters are volunteers and it is a pay as you wish type affair, donation recommended but optional and all proceeds going to charity. It’s actually a fantastic organization they’re running for those in need (although everyone there was very well to do); they have free doctors consultations on certain days as well. We settled on 5RM for each of us.

We rode to the botanical gardens to generally chill out. Nice green well kept park with small waterfalls and paths heavily utilized by upper middle class Malaysians looking for some exercise. Franz was smart enough to pack a frisbee which was thoroughly taken advantage of. I may just have to purchase and stow such a disc in my luggage for nice occasions such as that one (after all, everyone loves a good game frisbee of course).

Evening was finished in Little India: food to die for, the best nann I think I’ve ever had. I suppose I should also give mention to deserts as they have been a mainstay of my travels: Indian deserts are amazing! Try the “balls” filled with dried fruits and an array of spices.

Next morning, right on time, famous David with his homestay in Parit Buntar, was outside the 75 Guesthouse already chatting with Chris, Franz and an English cyclist who seemed nice but never got his name. Our goodbyes said, David and I set off at a casual pace through Georgetown, onto the ferry (which was free going that direction) and onto the busy highway. I had some dim sum in the morning at my favorite breakfast and lunch joint in Penang, Angel Cafe on Love Ln near Chulia, but couldn’t say no to David’s invitation for another breakfast meal. Breakfast (round two) was right next to a Hindu temple and David introduced me to a typical Indian breakfast, which I’m unfortunately unsure of the name, but it was dense and moist ovaloid bread rounds that were broken apart and used to scoop up various sauces; delicious.

Again, the age old battle of graciousness; I was again treated to this meal and in fact all meals thus far. David has been a spectacularly generous host. On the one hand I am so overly gracious of these gifts given to me but I can’t help but feel it is my responsibility to rightfully pay. I’m trying to do what I can to return all the favors by working on his website and maybe working on his bike in addition to leaving at least some money.

I’ve been fed like crazy since I’ve been here! So much good food!!

The night I got in David took me to his friends house where I received a very warm welcome and quickly was introduced to a “coconut wine” that fell somewhere in the continuum of noxious, interesting and delightful. Indian families, generally quite large; this one was no exception. Many daughters hung about, some seeming intrigued in some way by my presence, was a tad awkward. Indian pop was boomed from tinny speakers and of course I was roped into dancing. Despite the few cups of coconut wine was also a tad awkward but sure was good for a laugh by all parties.

David has a specially constructed addition to his home where there are two full beds specifically designated for all the touring cyclists who pass through (the number of which now exceeds something like 170!). All the stories of people he has met is quite inspiring; his whole person and story is inspiring in general, what a great guy, it can’t be said enough.

Today, I was treated to another traditional breakfast and started a day of what was basically a private led tour! We took his car as I was told there was an Indian wedding we were to attend mid-day and cycling would be too difficult. The elaborately put together wedding was rather educational; very fascinating the rituals. Beautiful saris and dresses also. I’m also just so taken back often of the beauty of Indian women; some are just stunning in a way I can’t describe. Supposedly these wedding ceremonies are insanely expensive; so much so it basically bankrupts the couple. Seems oddly familiar to Western culture (in that regard at least). We were treated to a buffet lunch which seemed to be the only reason for some of the guests presence. Really in a way, with the frequencies of these weddings, it’s a way of feeding the community; the process is very communal.

This was a Chinese cemetery seen from the roadside:

 

And a gigantic statue from a Hindu temple inconspicuously tucked deep into an oil palm plantation. Very peaceful surrounds which I was told by David, a cyclist couple even requested to camp there to practice yoga because it was just so tranquil.

More education: I had asked David what the story was with the white, beige and red “paint” that Indians applied to their faces. The explanation, as I understood it, was that it was ash which represented the life cycle (as in a reminder that we shall all be turned back to the ash from which we came one day). Also, the application of these is a social mechanism that signals to others that you have been to a temple. In a way I suppose it makes people aware of your piety. Reminds me of an “I voted” sticker (gross oversimplification I know haha). Here’s David:

 

Another roadside stop: a charcoal “factory”. Never knew how charcoal was produced, now I do. I figured the charcoal would be used for burning, barbecues and such, but I was told most of it goes to Japan to fuel the cosmetics industry; interesting.

 

Final stop for the day was at an old Chinese man’s cluttered and packed shopspace littered with all manner of old bicycle parts. His specialty is in British bikes like Raleigh and MG which were plentiful to obtain after the British occupation was over. This guy was a real character, loved to talk, and despite not having a very good understanding of Bahasa, picked up on a few things. It’s interesting about the languages in Malaysia: David speaks Tamil, bike guy speaks Chinese but as a common lingual ground, they speak Bahasa Malayu and both understands. The bike collector (which I wish I could attach a real name to), showed me his shop, all his collections, proudly stopping at certain ones to show the detail. This all was a real treat for me, right up my alley. Upon learning that I had owned a bike shop, he seemed excited and started rifling through his drawers eager to gift to me some hard to find British nuts and bolts (which I agreed, were very hard to find in new condition like this; they are the type that are commonly used on Sturmey Archer shifters mounts and brake lever mounts). He also gifted both David and I old looking drinking glasses with an old Mobil logo on them; apparently once handed out as gifts at petrol stations when you bought a certain amount of petrol.

 

Been having just an amazing time; so thankful I have such a gracious host, I really am lucky. I hope to one day, somehow, pay back David for all his open hearted hospitality. And if you somehow have the opportunity to stop by and see David, whether you’re a backpacker or cyclist, DO IT. You will not regret it.

07.Mar.09 South East Asia 2009