Map of my travels so far

Here’s a map of my travels so far. Its a slick Google Map version so its darggable and zoomable and such, play around with it. Shows most places I’ve been.

Lesson learned and 1000 mile journey

Firstmost, 1000 miles! I knew I would be approaching the 1600km mark soon but realized today I’m right there near that mark. Impressive to think about, sure hasn’t seemed like that far but thinking back I suppose it is. Very pleased with the accomplishment especially with at one time thinking that I’d never be able to cycle another day in my life after dealing with chronic knee pain. Here’s to another 1000
“Crazy” days get harder and harder to label as everyday is honestly rather crazy but yesterday….fairly crazy.
Routine early wakeup on my way out of Kangar. Internet place closed early the night before so I wanted to upload my blog entry at the next open cafe. No idea where I was heading but figured I could follow my pattern of success in Thailand and just head southwardly and count on finding a place to stay along the way. Made this note plenty of times yesterday though: Malaysia, Thailand…not the same.
Stopped in Alor Setar to grab fuel in the form of Indian food and crisanthemum tea and finally post the blog entry I was meaning to post the day before. Steady rain reared its ugly head as I left the internet place. Played the waiting game for an hour then left when the rain slowed. Even a slow rain or no rain at all is still unpleasant to ride through: You constantly have to avoid puddles and slippery obstacles and you get covered in a disgusting layer of oily and muddy filth sprayed at you from passing lorries and form your own tires.
I was running low on ringgit, had only 12 on hand, not nearly enough, so I searched out an ATM. The first I tried wouldn’t take, figured it just wasn’t the right system. Tried another bank…again, did not take. Tried another, and another and yet another until it was fairly clear, something was wrong with my card. On top of that, I no longer have a credit card as it was forced to be cancelled due to fraudualent charges and my back up card…my backup was expired, a minor detail I had overlooked before leaving home. Finally (and fortunately) I remembered I still had plenty of Thai baht on me and of course plenty of US dollars as well, no problem I thought. Problem indeed though.
From A. Setar I just picked a random marked city on my map that seemed a reasonable distance and started heading there on the way hoping to get my money changed. Place after place would not change my money. Originally when I arrived a convenience store changed the money for me but here, no one wanted to do it. A bank was the obvious solution but all were closed (rather early I thought). I asked person after person, store after store, where I can change money, all to no avail.
I finally got to my small town I intended to sleep at, darkness now quickly approaching, urgency setting in in my mind. A gas station told me I could change money at a supermarket which the supermarket then told me to bugger off (essentially at least). Through this whole experience the small taste of Malaysian friendliness and good will had already gone sour and it seemed each person I tried to engage had zero interest in helping me in anyway. No one had said hello to me on the road that day, perhaps a first. Stares were still ever present but instead of just being the normal blank spacey faces they looked more and more hostile. The whole situation was getting to me and for the first time in a while I started getting angry, frustrated, mentally disturbed.
I packed my tent for situations just as this: not having any place to slept. But with rain clouds taunting overhead threatening to soak the earth at any moment, not having the essential rain fly to the tent became a big issue.
Out of desperation, I headed towards the police station for any kind of help. I had read from other travelers before that police stations were able to give them a place to sleep in the station (however uncomfortable, still a shelter). I explained my predicament, the sense of desperation I’m sure present in my voice. The response: there’s a campsite in the mountains and a city 40k south. Huge help he was. I told him, put me in a jail cell, I don’t care, I just need a place, but he insisted no; apparently the police can only house and feed criminals and not people in need.
It looked like I had little option but to don my headlamp and switch on my tail light and continue riding south towards the next city 40k away where maybe, _maybe_, I could get some money changed and find a place to sleep. Not the most pleasant riding at night but was thankful to have the headlamp. Arrived in the city, I now forget the name of but remember it being of large font on map indicating it was large. Large yes but what the map couldn’t allude to was how ritzy the place was. HUGE malls, big name stores, towering fancy hotels, the works. Spotted a bank which strangely was lit up with several people inside and I even saw a person enter. Hope filled I quickly mad my way there but learned it was nothing but a taunt, an indoor ATM center; no use to me with my defunct card.
Found this citys police station and figured I’d try my schpiel again. Several police officers were there to talk to this time but again, their willingness to help was minimal; they offered nothing other than a money changer somewhere in a direction that one pointed one way and another pointed the other.
Again started asking around for where I could change money and was eventually directed to yet another giant mall. Found a kiosk close to the entrance with the beautiful words “MONEY CHANGER” written above it. Not very surprisingly, given the shape of the day thus far, the place was closed. True desperation at this point. I just started telling my story to random people at other kiosks until one said that the money changer just closed and they’d probably still be inside, just knock on the glass. A ha!! Knocked and there they were, looking quite annoyed at me but with my story given yet again, changed 4000 baht into ringgit; success!
With sufficient cash in hand I could finally safely buy food without the worry of needing that little cash for something else. Went back to the area where I was given my mall directions and sat to eat. I was approached by a Chinese man, “Tony”, who was told of my story and insisted on buying me some food. After a day of people hostile and unwilling to help, it was amazing to sit down with this guy and be the benefactor of his enormous generosity. He spoke perfect English in a very understandable accent resembling English (which I learned was because of his British schooling here in Malaysia). He’s quite the night owl he explains, walking the streets often. He proves it by talking my ear off until midnight. He is to be off to his next destination soon and apologizes for not having a place to offer for me to stay but he suggests I just hang around the mall area for the rest of the night (he makes note of the night guard so apparently its safe). We walk around the mall steps surveying anywhere that I can just hang out. In my mind I’m pulling up mental images of homeless in Santa Monica inhabiting any covered piece of pavement. I profuse my immense thanks to Tony and part ways. Only for a couple seconds do I consider rolling out my sleeping pad and trying to sleep on the mall steps there before simply hopping on my bike and once again riding south.
The riding is SO much more pleasant now. Traffic is nearly dead and the temperature is just perfect. Not bad at all and with the several teas I had had with Tony, I still had sufficient energy. Before I knew it that big city which I forgot the name was already a glimmer behind me and Butterworth, gateway to Penang Island, was seeming closer and closer; only 45k. I decided, screw it, I’m feeling good now, I know the ferries run all night, I’ll just ride all the way there and get into Penang, check out the nightlife, just make the best of it. Sounded good in my mind, that is, until 15k rolled around, I spotted a roadside hotel and felt the tiredness starting to roll over me. Suddenly sleep seemed a better idea and given the late hour, I’d just treat myself to a nice long sleep in the next morning with plenty of time still to get to Penang. Hotel was double my arbitrary max price limit but I of course gave in. AC, TV, private bath, fanciest place I’ve stayed at yet for sure; even free coffee
Quick ride to Butterworth the next morning. Tony last night had warned me about a toll road on the way there which I thought I would avoid but I simply followed the signs for “Feri Terminal” and was lead on it anyway. Turns out motorcycles are free and again lumping myself into that category for my own benefit, it was free for myself as well and no problem. Very quiet toll road along the coast Penang in sight; I was told it was a large city but wow, quite large with many highrises. I love the signage in this country. Still haven’t found a map but you can easily get around without one simply by following signs (albeit being on heavily trafficed roads). The signs led me right to the ferry terminal where it was an incredibly effortless process where I just pulled up to the ticket booth just like the motorcycles and paid 1.40R, the bicycle fare which was even listed on the sign.
I was recommended to stay at SD Guesthouse but their singles at both of their locations were all full. Must be a good place; I’ll check if there’s anything available there tomorrow. Settled on something for 20R yet quiet and clean enough to keep me content.
Georgetown is like stepping in a time machine, especially in Chinatown where all the buildings are quite old. I’ve been told that this a very old style of Chinese culture and I do believe it; fascinating. Its fun just to walk around and let the insane numbers of signed businesses overwhelm you and admire the old architecture. Not sure what to do here besides that, maybe I’ll figure that out tomorrow.

Alor Setar

3 Mar 2009

Back on the road this morning bright and early. Still no detailed map but just followed signs south to Alor Setar. In the city now at an internet cafe. Had some food earlier which has been a bit of a challenge so far since I have no idea what anything on a menu is. Fortunately everyone seems to speak English so I can either ask what they recommend or say Im simply hungry and anything will do or just ask for rice and chicken; whatever I get is always good.

Roads and signage are still great, I think its going to be rather pleasant riding through Malaysia. Highway I was on even had a separated lane for motorcycles (which I’ll pretend I fall into the category given a human motor variety)

I’m about 110k from Butterworth and then just a short ferry to Georgetown on Pinang island. I got an e-mail from David the cyclist homestay guy and he said he can even meet me in Georgetown and we can ride together! Seems like quite a guy.

I’ll ride another 30-40k south, hopefully find a place to sleep (that’s cheap) and then get to Pinang tomorrow.

Malaysia

2 March 2009

I have arrived
Satun isn’t much of a city and it can be barely considered Thailand, if it wasn’t for the frequent Thai flags you could easily forget that fact. The population is largely Muslim and you can tell already that cultural customs are vastly different (they have been ever changing as I’ve made my way south).

I searched out "Monkey Guesthouse" as recommended by travelfish.org but after innumerable passes of the street it was on, no luck in finding it. No visible bust station for the city either so likewise not the usual concentration of traveler focused businesses. Riding aimlessly I stumbled across "On’s Bar" which happened to also include "On’s Guesthouse" 1km down the main road from the bar. 200B, secluded from the town center so it’s quiet but access to the night market and shopping is problematic if you’re not asl lucky as I and don’t have a bicycle. Nice chap named Trevor and his Thai wife run the place. Their bar is way overpriced but I through them a few baht for a generously sized pineapple shake and a fruit plate to show my appreciation of their hospitality (and ensure they wouldn’t be upset I had brought street food in with me despite the blatantly displayed "no outside food" sign).
The rough idea of how to get to Malaysia was to go by boat: either to Langkawi island via ferry and then to Pinang or straight to Kuala Perlis by private longtail boat (then having to deal with waiting for a full boat until the longtail departs, to make it worth their while of course). A land crossing had not come into my field of options for some reason, but it ended up being my method of passage to Malaysia.
Already finished fooling around at an internet cafe and browsing the disturbingly boring Satun Museum (for the love of god don’t go!), I figured riding around the city would be my last bit of entertainment. Was mildly amused by this sign for its resemblance to a giant cave dwelling worm monster digesting a person: (or maybe I just have a vivid imagination…)

My sign amusement didn’t end there, found this quite inappropriate gem:

Stumbled across a small bike shop where as I rode by was called out to and after some quick mental deliberation, stopped to chat and maybe kill some time. Killed a lot more time than intended. For not knowing hardly any English Thais sure do have a way of keeping you around (although at times being a little uncomfortable for me at least). We talked bike things, I asked how much bells and lights were, they asked where I was from, offered me coffee, gave me delicious fried banana, on and on. It had come up though while talking that incidentally, the next day a group of them would be riding as part of their bike club to the border and I was invited to join along. Hmm, sounds quite familiar!
I didn’t agree right away for the ride, still was thinking I’d go by boat. After the great night market (Satun’s best and perhaps only attraction) I went to sleep putting off the decision in the morning as I often do. Woke up, had a sit, on went my bike clothes, it was a riding I would go.
Met them at the restaurant next door to the bike shop; had coffee and small pastries. I tried my hardest to pay for everyone or at least just my own tab but they resisted! Time and time again I’ve found it impossible to pay for anything when in a group like that of locals. They simply tell me "no, I am guest/tourist/etc". I’m sure they’re aware of the income disparities between us but yet they still insist, its touching but I still would rather pay, I just feel bad.
Slow paced flat ride which was just fine by me. Some intermittent rain but not enough to be a problem, kept the sun at bay at least. They stopped to eat. Had really delicious sweet sticky rice in a banana leaf and some sort of fried dough thing. Again of course, they would not take my money. Another stop at a friends "resort"; some rooms to stay near Ton Pliu waterfall. We had fresh coconut water and hung about for what seemed like ages. It was only 40k to the border by the end they had stretched it into a whole day event. Final stop before the border was some big Muslim event held outside with large setup tents and many tables and chairs for all you can eat dining. Didn’t exactly know what was going on but quite a bit of culture shock, very different. I did find the group of a dozen or so motorcycle riders quite the treat: they had actual large motorcycles, not the typical tiny scooters, and were very obviously emulating American chopper culture.

I’ve always heard that the US is emulated internationally in certain ways and it really is true, people have this "idea" about what the US is (either from movies or TV or other people) and they really look up to it with some kind of strange respect and admiration. Lots of Thai clothing and products get labeled with American flags or "Made in USA" (when they’re clearly not) but this is a desirable quality for them, from the US must mean its good.
We finished our meal of rice and various meats and sauces and vegetables (traditional Muslim, very similar to what I had in Burma, tea leaves and all) and above me, rolls of "toilet" paper hung from the tent were unrolled to wipe mouths and hands [you can find the stuff everywhere but never in bathrooms, its pretty funny from a Western perspective]. On the way out from the festival I had to wheel my laden bike through the masses and received stares like nowhere else yet. Muslims really are still friendly people in general but they’re more reserved and just seem to be less easy going and fun loving; my trick of dealing with stares by looking right back at them and smiling and waving is often useless amongst Malaysians (so I have found); but do not misunderstand, there are still so so many friendly people.
Departed my new friends from Satun and headed to the border through beautiful hills and jungle (near Taleban NP). Steep climb through hawkers and busloads of people towards the checkpoint. Easy stamp out from Thailand (no penalties this time, way to go me) and easy stamp into Malaysia with nary a question besides where I’m going (KL); 90 day visa, such a difference from the unfortunate 15 day from Thailand.

Quiet road out of the checkpoint, enjoyable until I noticed telltale squirileness in the bike indicating some kind of issue (I’m still often amazed at how I realize very slight differences like a bag not positioned correctly, its a real zen connection to the bike at this point). Flat rear tire, it happens. Pulled into a convenient gas station along the way and even more conveniently the gas station shelter provided cover from the sudden opening of the sky; serious downpour. Learned Malaysians are spectators just as the Thai, had a small group at the station come to observe the tube replacing process. The flat wasn’t a pinch flat but I couldn’t find any thorn or protruding object in the tire so I simply put a new tube in. 1km down the road I obviously had overlooked something as I had a flat again. A much closer inspection led to the discovery a very deeply seated piece of glass in the tire; first time I’ve honestly ever had that happen, glass usually isn’t a problem for me but I have heard it from others. Flats out of the way, it finally sinks in the beauty of signs in Roman script. What a welcome gift!

Not so welcome (nor a gift), was the tremendous climb ahead of me and then the accompanying thunderstorm: a particularly long one with intensity like none other I’ve seen and I’m not just saying that because I was forced to be in it. I’d love to know what the drivers passing me thought about this white guy on a fully loaded bike drenched to the bone and struggling slowly up this huge mountain; I’m going to say "crazy" was probably about accurate.
After battling the climb and now literal rivers running down the roadway, I mercifully reached the summit and a bus shelter that I chose to take advantage of to dry off a little and rest. A moto driver had the same idea but spoke no English but he did teach me that I didn’t need to peel the breadfruit I had, thanks random guy.
Crazy climbs come crazy descents and this one, quite crazy. I was almost having too much fun barreling down when I noticed to my left the gorgeous view!! I actually had to brake as hard as I could and do a tiny bit of climbing to get back up to the best spot

View properly soaked in, I proceeded with my fun but only managing a 60k/hr top speed; was hindered by insanely sharp hair pin turns.
Lukily my Rought Guide Thailand map has a tiny portion of Malaysia otherwise I’d have nothing (I suppose a little better planning would’ve been wise). Picked a medium sized city on the route south not too far, Kangar. On my way, I stopped in a gas station to check whether I could get a map there (realizing after off the bike that I had only USD and Thai baht on me so buying anything would be out of the question). A conversation was started in the gas station in surprisingly good English. This is where I met Dineh and her mother who owned the Caltex gas station.
Dineh seemed rather keen on helping me out in my travels and offered to show me around; figured no way I could turn down this offer. She hopped on her moto and I on my bicycle. Now why I could not just ride on the back of her moto, I don’t know: could’ve been just a misunderstanding or could have been a cultural/Muslim thing (I am often confused about what is OK and what is not in Islam especially considering women). So she led me to Kaki Bukit and neighboring Gua Kalem which is a spectacular complex of walk through lit caves, natural swimming pools and expansive forested park. Highly recommended visit if you’re in the area but I doubt very few will unless you’re crazy like I and biked over the border. I was then helpfully lead to change 1000B into Malaysia ringgit and also directed to a place to buy a Malaysia prepaid SIM to replace my now defunct Thai one. The day had already grown late and I suggested finding a place to rest my weary head; she said she knew a cheap place. Turned out, not so cheap and not so great either: a dormitory room with four meager twin beds (no one else staying there) for 50R (equivalent of 500B, just add a zero to the ringgit amount for easy conversion). Taking confidence in the fact that things have a way of working out, I passed at this place.
I could either pitch my tent or I could brave the darkness and make the 30k ride to Kangar. Back at the gas station I felt less and less willing to make the night ride but also realized with impending rain at any moment and a tent without a rain fly (my hasty weight savings), I’d have to pitch the tent underneath a suitable shelter. I spied a park with something that would work and also thought I could put it up under something at the gas station. Dineh seemed to think that it was OK for me to setup at the station but little did I know she was already arranging for me to stay with one of her friends; works for me
The only catch though seemed to be that I was to join in playing football with the friend and others; sure, I thought, why not. Like my last game with locals, they are serious players. I already know I royally stink at the game but it was unfortunate enough to have the added shame of being "the white guy" with funny looking bike clothes on (never had a chance to change since no hotel). Was of course still fun. That is, fun until I got kicked above my shin and then much much less fun when I got kicked in the same exact spot a second time. Was a bit startled to see the spot on my leg looked like a softball was injected into it, quite swollen. I hobbled off the netted indoor court in search of some ice. Fortunately one of the guys helped me and procured ice. Suffice to say, kept the bench warm for the remainder of play.
Ferried with the same group that arrived to a house of one of their friends where I assumed was my place I could stay but learned this guy wasn’t communicated with at all, he wasn’t aware that I’d be staying there…a bit awkward. A few of them went out to get drinks which I automatically assumed to be alcohol and started worrying about a long evening but was happy to realize where I was and who I was with: no alcohol! Could hardly keep my eyes open, so exhausted, fortunately asked whether I was tired and was given two cushions to lay out on the floor. Next thing I knew I awoke in the dark empty room. Remembered where I was and dragged myself to the couch to catch whatever remaining sleep I could.
Woken up in a hurry and with hardly a wink rushed to a car. The rush was apparently forgotten as we stopped for breakfast and sat idly for over an hour where I listened to their conversation which I could not understand but knew was about me (would occasionally hear California). Again I tried to pay for everyone’s meal as a token of my gratitude and I was denied, they really are adamant about this stuff.
Taken back to the gas station where my bike was being watched after thankfully still there but unfortunately with yet another flat on the rear. There’s got to be something still in the tire somehow. I patched the tube again but found nothing in the tire. The hole in the last tube was so small I couldn’t even find the leak (will run it under water later, that’ll do it).
Decided despite my still sore (but unswollen now) leg that I’d bike but only go as far as Kangar. Made sure to give plentiful “thank you”s to everyone (in both English and Malay which I thankfully was taught), and got a few pictures for memory’s sake.

Was dry when I left but a km in I felt drops steadily increasing volume and knew I should find cover ASAP; was smart because once again a downpour.

High intensity rain stopped after 15 minutes but the rest of the day has been a drizzle. Passed by a roadside stand and was hailed to stop and of course obliged. I met the proprietor of the stand as he handed me a glass of sugar cane juice (quite delicious). Very lovely conversation with him, he was very happy for me doing what I was; his English was so good, its crazy to have real conversations with people. I tried to give him some money for the drink but guess what happened.
Reached Kangar and began my accommodation search with far lesser challenge than in Thailand given I can now read the signs. I stepped into a hotel that looked possibly budget (a lot of NON budget places around here) and was told 40R a night. Outside, ready to go look for more options, I was a bit strangely approached by a man who inquired whether I was looking for cheap stay. He told me he ran a place and could give it to me for 30R. Figured I’d give it a shot although it seemed a bit dubious. Arrived at his "homestay" (as signed) and it has a bit of charm but also a bit of a dive. I managed to talk him down to 20R. Within walking distance to an internet cafe and many restaurants, can’t ask for much more.
I’ve really had an amazing introduction to Malaysia. There seems to be a winning combination of very friendly people and high English comprehension. It seems a shame now that I only have a little under 3 weeks here.
The rough plan (ha, plans) right now is to bike to Pinang, then to head to a homestay in close by but slightly remote Parit Buntar to stay with David who enjoys taking in touring cyclists, he even said he’d meet me in Pinang, seems great. I have seemed to have decided though to find a safe place to store my bike (maybe with David) and bus to the Cameron Highlands and/or Taman Negara for some overnight trekking (making use of my purchased backpack). After all the trekking, pick up the bike and cycle the rest of the way to Kuala Lampur. Sounds good to me, yup

Farang! Farang!

Finally caught up on blog posts!! You all have quite a bit of reading to do

Woke up this morning far too late; it wasn’t that I didn’t set an alarm, it was simply that it didn’t go off! Set off anyway on my way south to…wherever.

Was lucky to not have any more hooker problems for the night

On my bike I did my usual scan of the streets for anything that looked like a place I could get some coffee. Noticed the telltale sign of success, a metal tea pot on tables and many Thais seated. Sat down with Im sure the whole places eyes locked on my every move.

Asked for hot coffee with milk in Thai and again ran into my new problem: people think I speak more Thai than I do! They hear any Thai and launch into rambled sentences where only ocassionally I can pick out a word or verb (but usually it’s nothing that I understand and can only apologize). I like how Brian (from Ko Muk) put his Thai ability as “enough to get into trouble but not enough to get out”. The nice waitress, as it ended up, was offering me in Thai a plate of dim sum for breakfast which I only learned once she sat the plate down of bao and pork wontons (which Im glad she did despite not getting my response). Ah, properly caffeinated.

Late days are always painful, heat is a killer, especially as the months drag on into the hottest season approaching. Was fortunately granted some reprise throughout the day with mild cloud cover and some shade from rubber trees.

Check out this different variety of pineapple, it grows as a tree instead of on the ground:

 

Small mountain pass gave a few climbs but mostly a flat day which was fine by me. Days end I clocked 83k with a great 20.9k average and top speed of 60.3k (haha I dont think Ive ever given a stat rundown like that, it really doesn’t matter much at all).

I think today was the most “hello”s in one day. I got it everywhere! Yesterday was a good amount also but…not like today. Im most definitely way off the beaten track, way off. So many people of all ages so excited just to be able to say hello to me, its crazy. I’ve figured out that if I respond back with sawadee they seem a bit disappointed than if I respond with a hello so I mostly just say hello now or sometimes combine them both.

Out on the highway there were a few hundred kids scattered about picking up litter (which is great) and once they saw me coming they all went wild; I had quite the work cut out saying hi to every one of them. Some would cautiously watch me until I smiled and waved at them then they would beam and yell hello, so cute. Makes you feel great and I seem to constantly have a smile while riding.

Stopped at a stall market off the highway and made a few friends with my bad Thai, crazy outfit and fancy bike. I sat down to eat my fried chicken on a stick and a small crowd had joined me including a heckler who Im sure was giving me a hard time in Thai. Times like these I really wish I spoke more Thai. Working on it…

Staying in Langu (or La Ngu) just a short distance from Pak Bara pier to Tarutao. Its really tempting to get to the island but I just don’t have the time! There’s always next time.

I’m perfectly on schedule though. I’ll head another 70k or so to Satun tomorrow, stay a night and check out what’s there and then March 1st, the day of my visa’s expiry, head to the pier, stamp out of Thailand and ferry it on over to Langkawi for my Malaysia jaunt! Getting more and more exciting about seeing what Malaysia has to offer (which is funny since I never even thought I would going there).

Trang Coast & Ko Muk

Ride to Pak Meng beach was short, just fine, even saw a small waterfall from the road and got into town in time to have a late breakfast. Kristi got in an hour or two after I via minibus being dropped off at a non descript location in town. We decided to head to the islands; Ko Muk was recommended to me by a moto taxi driver and seemed to be one of the few islands with accommodation. I knew the pier was close by but what I wasn’t aware of what a hassle it is to get short distances without a bike. Long journeys, fine, a bus, but short, you’re left to a walk with an overly heavy pack on your back; not a lot of fun. We made the 2km walk only to be told a boat would cost us 2000B, just too much; we were told the pier to the south would be cheaper but it was 20-30k away. My new travelling companion was obviously not having the best of times: whether she was pissed at me or pissed at the situation, all I knew was that it was a rough start. My recommendation was hitchhiking but the mood was still foul; we frustratingly went back the 2k to a restaurant where I let her stew for a while while I utilized the luxury of bike travel to gather more information that may lead us to a reasonably priced journey.

This was my first introduction to Samran, a rasta looking Thai guy hanging out at the pier where I had biked back to. He said he “saw on my face” I wanted to go to Ko Muk and I knew I found the right person (his English is quite good). He had a longtail we could charter for an amount that seemed right and the more people we had the cheaper it would be. We closed the conversation with a crazy handshake thing he had constructed and I went back to Kristi to inform her of the good news.

We waited patiently for any other travelers headed to Ko Muk so we could rope them onto our boat. Combination of not much interest for the day, offer of camping on the beach and an invitation to a party that night lead us to delay the journey until the next day. We lounged around the rest of the day; Kristi worked on Samran’s dreads a bit.

 

Setup the tent on the beach in a clearing.

 

Was invited to play football (soccer to us Yanks, ha) and was reluctant at first but glad I just went and did it. I was horrendous of course but it was a lot of fun. I’d like to actually play more if given another opportunity. Thais are really serious about their football.

Sun set and out was broke the fire poi instruments.

Time to head to the party, which were we later informed was a celebration for a class college graduation. Was held at a restaurant where we sat down right in front by the band who incidentally were all of our new friends; we came with the band, cool. Chai, another Thai guy we met, played the pinn, a 3 string Thai guitar; very cool. Music was good but they seemed to gain no audience, was largely ignored; so the band basically just looked at us the whole time, the only people actually paying attention and clapping. At one time they even spoke some English on our behalf and made sure to point us out to everyone as the people from California and Hawaii (yep, farang right here, everybody look!). As the night went on though and the more and more Hong Thong imbibed (Thai whiskey…which isn’t actually whiskey), the more the crowd livened up; they started requesting songs and eventually the dance floor was packed! Interesting to me at least, nearly all (and sometimes all) of the dancers were men! All the guys were very into dancing where in the US it’s always the women. Kristi and I were invited up to join them and of course we had to entertain the offer. Was a great night, lot of fun.

We had met some Italians the day before that wanted to get on the boat with us that next day but the day of, they backed out. We still had one more person interested though and by we were rather sure Samran would give us a relative deal by now also.

First stopped for a bit at a “snorkeling spot” but the visibility was terrible and the current was intense. Next we stopped at “Emerald Cave”, the major tourist attraction for the chain of islands and I can easily see why. You swim 80m through brilliant green water (or “emerald” perhaps) into a cave, sometimes pitch black, until you reach an opening into a beautiful enclosed cove beach with rocky walls rocketing upwards in all directions. This was apparently a pirate hideout at one time. Quite a few tourists wading through in lines with their life jackets but we stayed long enough to have the place all to ourselves if for but a short time. Huge highlight for me, the place is pure magic.

Final destination on the boat ride was “Charlie Beach” (which we later learned was a misnomer, really Farang Beach). On the beach you get dumped into a rather disgusting ritzy resort with Europeans puffing away at cigarettes eating 200B plates of fried rice. Reminded me of a Club Med. Fortunately if you walk through their whole resort in the back is the road to get to the actual island which has 250B accommodation (instead of 2000B at Charlie’s) and a small fishing village.

Settled on a place called Mookies run by Brian, a Aussie living in Thailand for 18 years (of course married to a Thai woman, I suppose at this point I don’t even need to say it). His place is setup all with 4 person tents and rain flys with bamboo shelters above that; perfect in my view. Shared bathroom a short walk away, even hot water!

Brian’s quite a “salty” chap but he’s fun to listen to and of course speaks perfect English; I’d no doubt recommend the place to stay.

I explored the Thai village a lot just seeing what was going on and talking with the locals (as much as I could at least). Took a short hike amongst the rubber trees which was conveniently marked as a trail with tsunami evacuation route signs.

 

By the second day, I was already bored with the island. Same feeling as when I was on KoPhangan: "I need off this island". Islands apparently just don’t jive with me; too restrictive.  I arranged my ticket back to the mainland in an instant at night when the thought hit me and was happy to learn it would only be a measly 150B, real steal for typically pricey boat travel. Gathered my things together and went into mental preparation mode for beginning the regularly scheduled riding again the next day.
Kristi and I…things hadn’t been going great; I suppose I’d define it as a strange relationship. I think she’s a beautiful person, at times great to be around but confounding all the same; we really just aren’t compatible travelers and that just happens. I feel a little bad for not saying goodbye to her the morning I left but she was absent from the tent, presumably hooking up with the guy she was after, and I had a boat schedule to keep.
Coffee and meat on a stick for breakfast, yum. Shared the longtail to the mainland pier with Brian, a few Thais and a rooster supposedly intended for a cock fight.

My pitiful road map disappoints again. Dropped off at the pier not on the map and find myself riding on country roads which are either not on the map or are mere unmarked red lines so even if you were on the map, you wouldn’t know it. The real ticket would be to have a map which lists all the _rural road_ system. There’s wide availability of Thailand maps for the 1,2,3 and 4 digit main highways but I can’t find a single one which lists the rural road system (which is 4 digit and usually 1XXX and sometimes low 4000s). Ended up riding a total of 50km but making little progress; I was stuck in a maze of country roads. The west coast is a lot harder to navigate without proper maps; the east coast you can usually just follow the coast, not here though, doesn’t work.
80k and tired enough to stop, happened to be passing through Yan Ta Khao. Yet another place where surely I am the only farang around and the gawking stares (and occasional smiles) seem to prove that. Haven’t a clue about where to stay so I simply comb the streets off the main road asking people in Thai where an inexpensive hotel is. Run into some rescue workers who were quite helpful; one hopped on his moto and had me follow him all the way to the hotel(s). He showed me the 400B one but settled on the dive next door for 200B
Basically staying at a brothel; high seediness factor but its cheap. Had a very "worn" looking Thai working lady nearly bust down my damn door. She was rather determined to get in knocking repetitively and jiggling the door handle, knocking on the windows, anything. Had to just repeat "phom sia chai, mai ow"; I’m sorry, I don’t want.
Coming back from the night market I noticed a whole line up of girls sitting by the front desk who I assumed were to be picked from like a menu; so I was actually quite expecting to be bothered at least a couple times. No problems since that incident but fingers crossed, I may end up at the other place; double the price but with 100% less hookers (I can see the advertising campaign already, "Now with less hookers!").
Still plenty of time to get to Malaysia. Ride again tomorrow however far I feel comfortable but eventually to Satun where I can get a ferry to Langkawi Island then onwards into my first new country, Malaysia.

Bundled Blog Backlog: Krabi->Trang

Backlogged: writing blog posts becomes daunting when you do so much but write so little. Amazing how many adventures and stories can be fit into the matter of only a couple days.
So I think the summary of it all, the cliff notes if you will, was: climbed a mountain, bused to Trang, acquired a traveling mate, split from a traveling mate, swam a cave to a hidden cove beach, camped on the beach and and danced with drunken Thais at a college party. So ya…not much really
Krabi seems like ages ago at this point. Used trusty ol’ travelfish.org to get guesthouse recommendations and settled on Chao Fa GH. Single room like a sardine can but cozy in my book and a deal at 150B; brother and sister owners are great people as well (forgot to pay for breakfast and they accepted my apologies when I came back and even discounted me for my honesty).
Ragged and tired biking around was out of the question so I treated myself to a moto rental (out of the abundant options within town). Taking another recommendation from the internet, I motored on up 10k north to Wat Tham Suea for it’s 1237 step ascension to the mountaintop temple which supposedly offered great views of the area.

And what amazing views indeed! Spectacular in fact. Made the grueling climb quite worth it and that’s really saying something: these stairs are largely triple normal height and at times angle themselves nearly vertical so you’re climbing with both your feet and hands now taking on more of a rock climb than stair climb.
 

 
On the way down I made it much more of a casual jaunt stopping often to observe those brave enough to make the climb; everyone seemed to have different techniques, different grimaces, different groans and pants.

Highly recommended couple hour daytrip if you’re near Krabi town, enjoy a great view and have mild masochistic tendencies; bring water though, you’ll need it (can refill your bottle for free at the top).
Took the rest of the day to explore the Krabi area going to Ao Nang and Nappharat Thara, the typical tourist destinations. Nappharat Thara is fairly quiet with some good bungalows away from the beach but Ao Nang is a damn zoo. Complete tourist pandemonium and I couldn’t even understand why, there seemed to be nothing there but a lackluster beach and a million tourist shops.

I guess it’s just for people headed to Ko Phi Phi (don’t even want to think about how bad this place is). Grabbed some som tam, got drenched by a quick pouring storm and then took advantage of the tourist density by finding a place to buy a knockoff North Face backpack for $12US (hard to tell it’s a knockoff but the zippers are of poor quality and the dead giveaway is a Callaway Golf tag mistakenly applied to the inside of the bag). Backpack will be handy for when I do trekking and when I store the bike and travel the "normal" way as I will be when Rachel arrives.
Parked myself on the beach with a bag of mangosteens and watched the sun fade away.

Was on the internet that night, happened to get a message from Kristi, who I met on Ko Phangan, and rather quickly we were discussing places to meet up and travel together for a bit. Was excited at the time, a companion was quite welcome after all the solo time. Next day I hopped a bus to Trang. Ya I know…bus; not too fond of the mode of transport but it’s quick and the 150k span is not my idea of an enjoyable riding day. Bus ended up being a lot easier this time, the bike was just somehow put in the storage area without anything being removed (this bus was the mega tall variety that seems to constantly defy physics by taking turns without toppling over). Thai pop was blared for the duration which made me wonder which was worse, the piercing AC whine of the last bus I was on or this. Felt sorry for those who had much longer trips than my 1.5hr one.
Settled into the Yamawa GH in Trang (very cool vines through the building).

Walked about the town but it seemed very few things were open, possibly Sunday related. Smelled some sort of delicious pastry which I tried to purchase but apparently my Thai (or myself) was scary enough that the poor woman ran away from me (not the first time this has happened though).
Met Kristi at the bus station, walked to the GH catching up on the happenings for the both of us since KoPhangan. We visited the night market (another good one) and ate a fuller meal at a strangely gruff establishment.
Plan was to get to the coast. I would ride, she would bus. Awoke early and got psyched up to leave only to be shut in by the padlocked front door, doh! Sat and waited an hour before someone came to my rescue so the adventure could continue

Karst

Karst, a word unfamiliar to me prior to this trip, has been defined on levels exponentially greater than a Websters snippet. Such drama; every time I look at the karst towers I think they have some story to tell. Truly magnificent brushstrokes upon this earth.
Arranged a tour yesterday which I made sure included kayaking/canoeing. Prior I hadn’t really ever done one of these typical tourist package things choosing rather just to see things on my own. This time though, I figure I’d take the easy route and just let them do the work (which I believe was the right decision for this scenario).
Picked up outside my hotel by a songthaew amidst a strange parade procession that was marching down the main road (think katoeys (ladyboys) in elaborate dress). I was the only one in the pickup and was a bit troubled to think that I might be the only one, would’ve been lonely. Fortunately we picked up two more, then three more later on; was a great mix between enough people for a good atmosphere but small enough group to still be close. Dropped off at the pier, without much of any direction we hopped onto a longtail boat with our not all that friendly boat operator/guide who spoke no English (honestly didn’t expect more really but an English speaking guide would’ve been a nice touch).

Conversation or information turned out to be nearly impossible anyway over the snarling of the unmuffled engine.
We snaked through waterways of mangrove with spider webbed intertangled roots and then motored into the bay. At first, a few towering limestone peaks, then a few more, then they’re all around you, everywhere you look breath taken.

 

Digital cameras are a godsend at this point, you just want to keep snapping pictures of everything; it would be quite difficult to decide which shots were worth the film. We cruised about for a while at one point going through a small cave system that I was particularly impressed with how well the boat operator guided us through (although I suppose he’s done it just a few times before). On another island, the boat was beached and we were given torches to go explore a cave (again, being our own guides haha).

Very cool cave, not much different than the ones I’ve seen in the past but that of course does not make it any less spectacular. Saw a few bats that seemed displeased by our disturbance. Another short cruise about and the boat was beached again on a pleasant stretch of deserted sand overlooking green pinnacles in the distance. Lunch was handed out, khao pad koong, fried rice with prawn; quite a spot for a picnic. Next stop was "James Bond Island" which I already was not looking forward to but knew it would be on the agenda, it always is. I don’t understand the whole thing, maybe cause I didn’t see The Man with the Golden Gun, but it all seems quite silly. Its just an island, not any more particularly beautiful than the next but with the exception of having a small tourist infrastructure of railing and stairs, many knick-knack stalls and a lone Thai at a makeshift booth to take 200baht for the honor of gracing the island with your presence (which was covered by our tour package deal).

Nothing else really to say about that. Onward, we headed to kayaking off an island with some caves and mangrove. I was rather excited about kayaking, I quite enjoy it in general and now that I saw where I’d be kayaking, it was made all the better. Unfortunately, pulling into sight of the boats which held the kayaks I cringed at the sight of about 50-75 tourists (Western, Thai and Japanese) atop the water in chaotic lined masses that looked a bit like trails of ants. Oh well, not that surprising, I just get spoiled often by sidetracking the whole tourist trail thing. Ready to get my kayak, I notice the situation, everyone is in a boat with a guide, they’re just sitting there being taken for a ride. This would not do it for me so I had to try my hardest to get the Thais to understand that I wanted to go alone. I know how to say go, pai, and I can say a few other things, but didn’t know what to say for "alone" or "solo" or "only me". Enough pointing and spitting out words I knew and they got the picture which then led to familiar laughter on their part, some reference to me being strong and then another reference to male virility which I strangely get from locals far too often (I’ve obviously stopped asking questions at this point).
Succeeded in getting my own boat, albeit an abysmal inflatable canoe that proved unwieldy and slow but no matter, being the master of my own ocean path, I could steer clear of the tourist hoards and do my own exploring. Was hectic at first, navigating through the lines of ants, but once free it felt great. I found a little "secret" cove that I pulled my boat up and explored, way cool.

Circled the entire island and did a few routes through the mangrove

Ended up being a great time. The tourists looked at me like I was crazy, seeing my lone unlifejacketed self in the boat paddling my own path. The Thai guides laughed, smiled and cheered at me most asking where I was from then responding with "Obama!". Crazy how much the entire world is aware of the US and boy do they love Obama.
Short stop on Ko Panyee, a Muslim fishing village with a town backdrop I was highly envious of. Not much there besides tourist shops and a few eateries. Did some mild bargaining which proved successful with my little Thai (they get such a kick out of this, I still can’t get over it). Thus our day was concluded; brought back to the pier and back in the songthaew to the bus station where it seemed like everyone was already heading out of town (some to Phuket, some to Krabi, some to Bangkok, myself…a slower pace, here). I exchanged info with one of the guys I met on the tour, it was quite the coincidence how our travel plans seem to line up. He’s travelling solo right now headed to Krabi then to Malaysia beginning of March, same as myself. Perhaps I shall see him again

Forgot to mention! It rained yesterday. Well to simply call it "rain" would be troublingly understated; this was a serious deluge of water. As the foreigner unfamiliar with SE Asian storms I’m sure I’m being overly dramatic but I thought it was quite impressive. It poured for a little over an hour then subsided. I luckily had just returned from a walk and was dry in the shelter of the hotel. I chose to maintain my dryness and observe the watery madness in the hotel foyer with a book. Warm rain always trips me out, such a bizarre feeling for someone who’s lived on the west coast of the US their entire life. My brain just can’t seem to wrap itself around the idea of it raining while sweat continues to accumulate on my brow. This does quite explain the greenness of this area; must rain here more often.
Had some noodle soup and I think I’ll scope out some deserts now, I do love my sweets. I’ve gotten the whole ordering from a soup stall thing down pretty well, I can do the whole transaction in Thai. I usually go about it by requesting kwaiteao nam kai then specifying lek by pointing to the smaller noodles. It gets the job done but seems awkward. Anyone know a more proper/correct way?
Tomorrow is still undecided but I thought maybe I’ll check out the forest park just 8km away then bike 40-50k and camp somewhere, then bike the remaining 40-50k to Krabi. We shall see!!

Phang Nga: Never a day without excitement

And by excitement that usually means challenge

Yesterday I stopped in Takua Pa after a 90k ride. Its a city of marginally larger size than I’m used to but there’s generally little there besides the small market around the bus station (which I thoroughly paroozed). Had to settle with plusher accommodations than I needed again for lack of other options; 300baht (my arbitrarily set maximum price point). It can seem strange, but the farther you get outside touristville the more accommodation costs. The rationale is simply that there’s no market for cheap crash pads in Thai villages and towns, the Thais have higher standards than us dirty hippy traveler types.
To kill some time (and prevent myself from haphazardly dozing off far too early in the day) I sought out some internet access. I thought I’d justify my 300baht splurge by using the in house hotel computers but no luck, broken, told to go back to the bus station. Saw the telltale signboard for "internet/gaming" but a glance instead proved perplexing, totally empty space with children’s toys everywhere and crayon scrawled walls. Why not ask though, right. I was told by the man there that he no longer ran that business but as I said thanks and turned away he offered me use of his personal computer. Bit awkward of an offer but I thought generous none-the-less (although I was sure he’d still charge me….which he did quite exorbitant). Replying to a few e-mails and checking up on the happs, the man’s two children were now becoming quite jubilant over the fact a farang was on their computer; they would not leave me alone. The younger of them was intrigued by the gadgets I had and the older wanted to show me his computer games. Very cute and all, until at least that is the older craned his neck and pressed his face uncomfortably close to the side of my head peering into my ear…uh, "ok" I thought and tried to pull out a smile. The boy returned from the back room now with qtip in hand raring to go and clean the farangs ear (maybe this is a game I am not aware of or maybe this is just a very full service internet experience..or maybe its just weird). I’ve commented before about this culture compared to Western and personal boundaries/space; it basically just does not exist how we know it. So I’m not sure whether to be a little offended my cleanliness is in question by a 10 year old Thai kid or just plain perplexed, maybe both and maybe on top of that pretty amused as well. That ended luckily without any ruptured ear drums and suffice to say I could do without the internet for now so I packed my things and returned to the hotel.
Another morning dragging myself out of slumber in the last dark hour before sunrise. Noticed a coffee shop on the main road but wasn’t open, had to settle with 7-11 again.

Since Ranong I have had surprisingly zero dog attacks or really hardly any barking for that matter; quite nice (and a welcome change). Streak ended today, dog found the urge to chase me irresistible. This was still early in the day, the caffeine and adrenaline cocktail was able to propel me away from my foe but coming off the high gave me the shakes.
Bought some pineapple cookies at 7-11 with some Korean script on it, they’re quite good. I ate a few for breakfast (with a drinkable yogurt and the lackluster instant coffee) but stashed the rest away conveniently in my jersey back pocket where I could administer them throughout the day like they Scooby snacks [that's what just kinda came into my head, little rewards for making it over hills or something silly]. Bought some banana chips for the road as well and it wasn’t until I went to open them that I noticed the strange placement of the unmistakable image of cheese.

I hoped sincerely they weren’t cheese flavored and luckily (and deepening the mystery) the ingredients on the back only listed banana, sugar and butter. Maybe they thought butter and cheese were close enough…don’t know.

Speaking of hills, ya..there were hills. Nothing too awful, worst was a 4km climb straight up. Thank god for that 22 tooth ring; if I could have one smaller I would be first in line to get it, can never have too low a gear. At the top of this treacherous hill, a mysterious sign wishing good luck, hmm. (Good luck on the descent maybe?)

Climbs of course also do mean descents [I love that yellow sign with a truck barreling down a hill with the warning "use low gear", might as well call those the "fun times ahead" signs]. After the huge climb I wondered if I’d break my speed record and break 60kmph. Cake! Ended up with a 70.5kmph max speed, nice.

Saw another crazy big spider with a nice looking web

 

Arrived in PhangNga about mid-day, was only 65k today, nice since I was already dead tired; 3 consecutive hilly riding days takes a lot out of you. In Ranong I had done some minor internet research and found two hotels that were cheap and rated well and transcribed the names into my notebook. Into the city proper, I stop to pull out said notebook and check for the names I will be looking for. Cursory rummage through the front bag, can’t find my notebook. A more thorough search…nada. Aw man, again, unfortunate turn of events. I remember pulling it out at a bus stop/hut to write down some notes and I figure I must have left it there but also figure that was about 30k ago and I feel in no condition to backtrack. Just as I was about to convince myself to mentally move on and call it a loss it dawns on me all the information I had there, all the collected e-mails of people, all the hot tips and recommendations, all my Thai phrases and finally the nail in the coffin was remembering in the back pocket of the book I had stashed my California ID and a second credit card (both I accidentally brought with me on the trip in my wallet). As I said, nail in the coffin, sealed the deal, I had to retrieve my book! Almost in the same thought as the conclusion to retrieve it dawned on me I was back in tourist land and could probably procure a motorbike no problem, sounded feasible. Searched out a hotel, any hotel, just a place to stash my stuff while I start my search. First place I found, 150B, cheapest in town and on top of that, I sign was hung advertising motorbike rentals, perfect. 10 minutes later after some troubles with the electric start and fueling it up I was off back the way I came (but now at a much greater clip with zero physical effort not to mention a lot cooler given the speed). I had a mental picture of where I left but was not sure how far I had to go (although I did know I was looking for a bus shelter). Bus stop after bus stop I passed stopping my brain for a second to ponder whether this was it, nope, must be another. I had ventured pretty far back along my path, had I left it this far back? I shouldn’t have started to doubt myself because just as that doubt was settling around me I descended a hill and knew right away this was it. I pulled up and could’ve done donuts on the highway out of joy (but restrained myself). There it was! Same place I left it, seemingly untouched. Snatched it up with the bike still running as at this point I didn’t care to push my luck and test if the bike would start again. Motored on back and all was well. Funny also, one of the hotels I had written down was the one I had chosen!
Walked the town a bit. Stopped at a tour operator to get a city map and also check on pricing. I think I’ll just take the easy route and get aboard a package tour through the bay that includes kayaking through caves. They offered one, I’ll check some other places to compare pricing. Had some lunch, ordered pad see ew but what I got clearly wasn’t that; was of course good anyway though.
Here is definitely a good place to stop for 2-3 nights. Plenty of restaurants, tour opportunities, 15baht internet and two night markets (with all the deserts I love, awesome).

Mad dash to PhangNga

Quite a new concept for me a time table but I am making do. Have to make sure I exit Thailand into Malaysia by March 1st (or pay penalty again which I’d rather not). I calculated it out and know I can make it without a doubt but there’s still something in me that’s telling me to hurry and not dilly dally as on my first month. In that spirit I have made two quick no frills rides from Ranong to the middle of nowhere around Suk Samram and then today from there to Takua Pa.
Big scenery change for me, exploring the west coast for the first time. Biggest mountains I’ve seen so far (and of course the biggest climbs I’ve had to endure as well).

Very lush beautiful jungle, from a distance the mountains look like dense green shag carpet.
New computer has been working well; very nice to have that luxury again.
Once again out in the boonies so I have the usual pleasantries that go along with it: over the top friendliness and hellos and smiles almost everywhere I go. I had so many people say hello to me this morning at a rest stop I quickly jotted this down:
Hellos launched like artillery fire
Riding a gauntlet of friendliness
Sniped greetings, origin unknown
Return volley impossible
Machine gun bursts “Hello, hello, hello!”
Attack of good will
I suppose the feeling only makes sense if you’re there Its pretty wild most days and often hard to keep up with all the people who want you to pay attention to them. Some stay silent though and just intently stare; so intent a stare that by Western culture it would be undoubtedly rude. You learn quick just to smile and laugh it all off; if you wave to the “evil eye starers” their dead face suddenly turns into a smile and they usually wave back so it’s all good, just have to carry a certain mindset.
So as the title has elluded to, I’m making my way to PhangNa city which should be only one more day away. Trying to get there as quick as possible as I’ve heard it’s quite beautiful and great for kayaking all the while being less touristy than its neighbors of Phuket and Krabi (Phuket I’m skipping altogether). If I like the feel, which I hope I will, I’ll give it a few days and then move on.
The west coast is a lot harder to plan for, the cities and roads aren’t along the coast as I was accustomed to before. I’m basically having to give myself a general route and go however far I feel comfortable with that day. Hopefully I find a place to stay but if not there’s always the tent; it’s worked just fine so far.
Traveling further south I’ve found three things: there’s a lot more mosques and covered up women, a lot more vegetarian food options (much welcome) and tsunami evacuation route signs everywhere.
Sobering reminder of the tragic events not that long ago. I passed by the tsunami museum which seemed interesting but it was unfortunately closed.

Great new Thai phrase I’ve picked up, “Lot noi dai mai” which roughly translates into “Can you make it cheaper?”; say it with a smile and its almost guaranteed to work