Aya Minibus to Pai – A test in gastric fortitude

Seems Aya has the market cornered on transportation from Chaing Mai to Pai so being the backpacker sheep we are (har har) we hopped right on board.
I’ve come to know most minibus drivers to be pretty nutty behind the wheel; just something about them I guess. Our Aya driver though, someting “special” about him: some certain flair, affinity to just being an all out asshole driver.
The road to Pai begins what later continues as over a thousand hair pin turns; fortunately we only received the “pleasure” of the couple dozen. Cutting corners, passing on blind curves, hurtling the van along bends, g-force pressing us and our unfortunate fellow passengers into the sheet metal: no mercy.
Seemed out of fashion for even normal chaotic Thai driving style. Especially out of fashion was the hostile use of the horn (and then NO use of the horn when needed around blind curves).
All of us came out alive, I do hand it to him for that, but came away with a hell of a headache. Unfortunately, this trip will have to be repeated, an ocassiona I’m not at all looking forward to but this, I’ll be packing Dramamine!

Ayutthaya

NOTE: Another late entry, haven’t been keeping up well lately, especially with pictures. This post was written on the train riding out of Ayutthaya and recounted the last couple days prior

Bangkok wasn’t our first choice for a stop but surely it was the simplest solution: at least one day we could handle. I did find on Couchsurfing.com though that a meet was supposed to be taking place just as we happened to arrive; this would surely soften the edge of another visit to the city Couchsurfers being generally an entertaining and fun loving bunch with the notion of world travel linking us altogether.
Meeting time still hours away, we (possibly stupidly) drowned ourselves in the madness of MBK and the Siam area again. Veterans by now, the missions was to simply unlock Rachels phone so a Thai SIM could be used and then high tail it on out of there. I still can’t understand how the 4th floor electronics melee can support the sheer number of mindblowingly identical kiosks. Talk about same-same. I reckon a single kiosk counts on nothing more than the sheer chance a shopper, in their daunting confusion, stops randomly at their display of wares instead of the identical setup next to them and another next to them and another…
I don’t understand phone unlocking at all but our chosen random kiosk was able to do it in 20 minutes for 500B; what he did, I have no idea, but it works now.
I suppose we strayed from the phone mission objective a bit while looking around briefly for a suitable replacement bag for myself since my poor excuse for a backpack had self destructed and two crucial zippers are now non-op. Sad since from the go I figured the zippers would be the only weak point. A very simple duffel or rucksack with ideally zero zippers would be my prime choice at this point but I was unfortunately unable to find that in Ranong and now unable as well in MBK. Plenty of other knock off garbage but replacing one piece of junk with another seemed like a futile gesture so I’ll continue making do with the Frankenstein setup I have now with Rachel’s daypack strapped to the back of my only half functional pack.
Enjoyed the convenience of BTS to get us back to the park. Now that I’m recalling, we used the taxi to get us (and a crazy backpacker chick) into the city from the bus station but after that, only used the train and our two legs to get around. A substantial part of the Bangkok frustration is the monumentous traffic affliction; quite a bit less stress when you can avoid it. I only wish the rail system was a bit more extensive (ie past National Stadium) and that there was ONE pass for both BTS and MRT (a concept I figured was rather intuitive but apparently not to the transit planners).
The CS event description indicated to meet at the park entrance by the king and a horse. Obviously not familiar with the city like the locals (who were the organizers), we had to take a stab at what exactly this entrance was. We found the king (we thought) but the horse was absent; perhaps ridden away. Enough standing around and a guy fitting the profile of a CS traveler wandered over to investigate if our intentions were the same. The group snowballed from there picking up stragglers and latecomers as we went, eventually settling on a piece of grass in the nicely calm park that despite sitting square in the city could easily give the feeling of transport away from the normal city insanity. We sat, sharing the food we all brought, discussing our travels, our goals, our life in general. So many fascinating people, locals and travelers alike, as many as 50 at one point, all mingling on the grass a frisbee (of poor Thai quality) occasionally being tossed about. Even a bike tourer attended but he was strangely quiet: attempted conversation but no matter the topic he seemed uninterested and we never even got far enough in for me to explain I was cycle touring as well. I did have many lengthy conversations with other genuinely warm and nice people.
Sun behind the skyscrapers, rumor of invitation to a club where a CSer was DJing started circulating with mainly the prospect of "free drinks" at the forefront of each murmur. A band of us started the journey there again conveniently via train (to Suhkumvit). The others seemed to know where they were going so we followed, now on foot, through the infamous Soi Cowboy which was only a vague mental image before actually going there and…haha, wow….terribly over the top; fun just to talk through. [If you're unfamiliar, its a well established alley of seedy heavily neon-lit bars and strip joints where offers of cheap sex are thrown around with eerie abandon].
Was still early so the club was dead but indeed there were a few free drinks and a chance for us to chill out and talk (despite my insistence that clubs are the worst place to go to talk when you have high decibel noise to contend with; a sore throat trying to explain the smallest details is not my idea of a good hangout spot). Strangely no dance floor, maybe later in the night, don’t know, but when the free booze was cut off, we split anyway.
Leisurely late waking morning the next day and a zombie walk to the underground station and straight to Hualamphong for a train to Ayutthaya. Thirty trains a day on the route mean despite your arrival to the station, you won’t be waiting very long. I’d taken 3rd class train before but figured it was an experience for Rachel which I bet it was haha; only 1.5hr ride though.

Because of the day’s time constraints, we decided to tour the ancient city by tuk-tuk instead of bicycle and met up with a friendly driver we met earlier. Off we went on a whirlwind tour of the ancient grounds

Time constraints were even too great for the speeding tuk-tuk since we discovered by the sun’s setting we had only seen 3 out of the 6 sights as part of the tour. Our new tuk-tuk driving friend suggested we resume again in the morning and he would be happy to drop us off at the rail station at the tours completion; sure, why not.

He and his wife picked us up for breakfast the next morning. I had picked up for dinner with them the night before so they insisted on breakfast. Most of our conversations revolved around asking how to say something in Thai They got a kick out of my little Thai, why we originally were engaged by them, but they got an even bigger kick out of the even smaller repertoire of Thai that I’ve tried to bestow upon Rachel. Their amusement with Rachel continued by her American use of utensils (fork in right hand) and her use of the phrase “oh my gosh” to which they bemused, repeated a few times in various tones.

 

Dropped at the train station, booked a ticket to Phitsanulok (gateway to Sukhothai) via a special express diesel car train; sounds fancy huh. There’s a confusing system of trains listed in order of speed they travel: ordinary, rapid, express, special express.

I took a stroll around in search of a filtered water vending machine (1B for 1.5L of water, can’t beat that for sure, and no waste!). Asked directions to the machine, which I got and happily replied with my thanks. To my surprise, I heard a “de nada”. Wait a minute…Spanish? Turned on my heels and started a conversation with the guy who I learned spoke a few languages and welcomed Rachel and I to chill out at his cafe while we waited. Fun guy, very active in trying to get people to come over and sit down; I think good for him. Runs a guesthouse as well, closest one to the train station and only 100B. We sat waiting for the train and were entertained with this guys jokes, magic tricks and puzzle games he’d randomly hand us and then yell out “tonto!” when we couldn’t get them :p

Train to Phitsanulok, special express is actually rather speedy. Some details follow after this point but I’ll be honest, I’m looking to get out of this internet cafe and trying to speed things along sooo…minimal detail mode.

Bus from Phitsanulok to Suhkothai. Stayed at No.4 GH; bitten by mozzies from hell. Moved go J&J. Rented moto from Poo’s in town. Rode to Old City. Saw the amazing sights, rented bicycycles, or rather, Thai bicycle shaped objects. Amazing end to the day, sun setting behind Khmer ruins.

   

Arrived in Chiang Mai today after an early morning bus from Suhkothai. Hounded by tuk-tuk drivers, they’re quite determined here but the one we settled on ended up being a great guy and affirming what I’ve heard about Chiang Mai: some surface craziness but a general laidback attitude.

Staying at Eagle House 2 in the old city section and it is not great. We didn’t do our research our well so we’re paying the price, oh well. Still have yet to decide the plan from here but I can already tell there will be no shortage of options.

 

 

Lee 3 Guesthouse – Near Soi Duphli, South Silom, Bangkok, Thailand
The guidebooks seem to tout this number 3 building as the best and although I did not visit the others (1,2 or 4) I would find it likely that indeed 3 is king. Nestled wayyyy back into a secluded feeling alley (look for the signs), noise is not a worry in the least. Lee 3 was the only of the four guesthouses in that immediate area that were open at 8am and a friendly elderly woman was happy to show us first a small room with modest garden view for a mere 120B and then a larger room for 160B which we settled on (both rooms had beds suitable for two and overhead fans). The larger room had such luxuries as a table, a mirror and two plastic chairs. Front door is locked at 10p and a key is given. The surrounding neighborhood has seemed to become well established as an area for both travelers and expats populating the cheap apartments (which most do nightly rooms for rent as well). With this, you get a smattering of travel agencies, internet cafes, restaurants, laundry, etc. Beyond the neighborhood you’ll find Lumphini Park and Lumphini MRT Station a 10 minute walk making connections to most places in the city a snap. Cheap, quiet, traveler amenities, park and rail transit in walking distance: winner.

 

Ayutthaya Guesthouse – Ayutthaya, Thailand
On the main road of the traveler ghetto amongst restaurants and cafe/bars lays the two story Ayutthaya GH. Never made any real connection with the staff but never had a problem either; hospitable. There are some rooms to the back of the building and rooms on the second floor (the latter seeming quieter). We were situated in a room with private bath and huge bed. The bath "room" is a bit of an anomaly though being simply a non partitioned section of the room with a small tiled divider giving slight privacy around the toilet but honestly only for couples who have a certain level of comfort with the human body. Shower stall was nice though with actual water pressure; cold water. We weren’t even advertised the feature, but the room came air conditioned. AC room with private bath for 300B; a deal for sure although in the area you can get cheaper without this room’s luxuries. The place next door had bicycles and motos for rent and the desk downstairs could organize travel activities but we took part in neither. Easy walk from the train station: exit the station and head straight towards the river to the pier; boat drops you off in town, turn right, then left, then right again once you find the traveler area across from the bus activity and waiting tuk tuks.

A Picture Update!

Been really behind on picture updates, just have had bad luck with cafe computers (getting very fed up with them) and just haven’t been as on top of the whole blog thing lately

Here are the pictures taken that were not inserted where they should have been in the last entries:

Had no idea Bangkok had a free bike share program but apparently they do! This is right off Khao San where the bikes are all unlocked and free to take on a simple honor system. It should be noted that all the bikes were there and I never saw a single one around the city…

Khao San

 

Travelling to Ko Phayam off Ranong

 

On Ko Phayam

Tent accommodation at Phayam Resort

Its pronounced “pohn”…I hope

Prodigiously producing jackfruit tree on the island

Back in BKK. Birthday bus muffin!

Confirmation that Thais really have no clue what cheese nor butter look like.

Bangkok, take 3

Bangkok again? Won’t be my last time either, plenty to come in fact; oh joy. Well….it’s really not that bad

A lot of deliberation was put into our exit from Ranong. Had at first wanted a quick exit straight to Chiang Mai but direct flights are not offered. Thought about two separate flights, Phuket to BKK, then BKK to CMai and even found crazy cheap airfare by NokAir but were disappointed to discover that it was only cheap until you proceeded to purchase the ticket and were shown the fees and more damagingly, the fuel surcharge; after these the price had more than doubled and it was suddenly a much less attractive option. I have never been one for heavy air travel anyway, only when necessary; it’s not a very efficient transport option at all.

After quite a bit of arguing and drawn out decision making we found that the bus we were originally avoiding for its brutal 14 hour trip was actually only 8 hours and we could take it in a comfortable sleeper style bus: sold. Bought the most expensive bus option but was still much much cheaper than flying and slightly cheaper than the bus+night train combination.

In Bangkok…again, this time we decided to keep an adventurous spirit and try something new. Picked the neighborhood in the Silom area south of Lumphini Park. Lots of very expensive hotels around but many very inexpensive ones as well. Found the travellers (and “white guy with Thai girlfriend”) area off Thanon Rama 4 across from the boxing stadium and down the alleys. We’re staying in Lee Guesthouse building 3 which is by far the best of the bunch down a very quiet alley away from all the business. Only 120B for the cheapest room which would’ve been fine for us but we were also offered a larger room for 160B which we didn’t think twice about taking; still very cheap. Neighborhood is fairly nice here, lots of restaurants, travel agents, guesthouses, internet, laundry, etc. Selling point is the quiet alleys you can get but still retain a short walk to the park and commuter train and a slightly longer walk to Siam area.

Going to run some errands and such during the remainder of the day (which is much of Bangkoks usefulness, a supply center). At 4 we’re meeting up with some Couchsurfing.com people for a meet in Lumphini Park; supposed to be a large turnout (40 people) so it should be fun.

Plan we’ve established so far is to take the train tomorrow in the morning to Ayutthaya to see that sights then that same day hop back on the train to Phitsunlok, gateway to Sukkothai for some more sight seeing and soaking up some history. Onwards from there, Chiang Mai. We have the vague notion of renting a large motorbike and riding two up with some our luggage around the north, doing some of the loop paths and just generally going about in a similar fashion as I do when I’m on the bicycle. I’ve yet to really get a hold of how exactly we’re going to load the moto with our gear or where even we will get it but I’m sure if it’s meant to be then it will happen.

Ciao!

Backpacker Rat Race

This entry was written 2 days after arriving on Ko Phayam. We stayed 2 more days and are now in Bangkok; further updated post to follow later

 

Cyclist turned backpacker officially having jettisoned my bike in friendly territory (Refill Now, locked to a post still encased in plastic).
If I don’t write down my thoughts, ideas, discoveries, insanities right away, there’s increasing effort to pen these entries ("pen" of course used in the most proverbial of senses). So, I now write in the time honored tradition of scatter brained thinkers, the bullet pointed list:

• Thewet , quiet GH neighborhood by National Library
• Khao San, finally, not as crazy as hyped, fun vibe though
• Airport encounters, solo becomes partnered
• Tuk-tuk
• Candy indulgence, sweet piece of home, happy birthday to me, thanks Mom, Dad, Rachel
• Rain is still no stranger, cabbies have a special relationship with it
• Bus route map, braver to try, somehow a free ride
• Realizations, solo easy life, partnered rewarding but challenging, lack of plans
• Bangkok little explored before its already created two more victims of overexposure
• Hualamphong, plan: escape, where: decided on ticket availability, night train to Chumphon
• Burning through cash at surprising rate, transport adds up
• Time to kill, oh yaaaa! JatuJak (Chatuchak) Weekend Market! Convenient subway ride away
• Shopping madness, lived up to hype. More locals than tourists and more cool schwag than crap, amazing art, cute yet depressing animal section
• Night train far better than buses, very enjoyable, 4am arrival
• 4:30am custom tailored tour of sleeping Chumphon by friendly neighborhood drunkard, singing "Swallows to Capistrano" at no extra charge, led to bus station
• Bus to Ranong, off one transport, easily on to another, seamless
• Ranong, again, familiarity to a still unfamiliar continent sheds an odd feeling
• Band of backpackers, scooped up another off the bus, looked in need (of conversation or otherwise), visa stamp for her, Ko Phayam for us
• Songthaew, market, roundabout route, pier
• Slow boat to…Ko Phayam, pleasant, calm, Burmese and travelers aboard, largely German
• Moto taxi, only transport on the island, bit crazy
• Ao Yai, what a peaceful spot, bungalows dot the shore, only a handful of people around
• No luck with bungalows, first abysmal, second noisy rasta bar neighbors, decided against a third (despite its lucky reputation)
• Swimming more fun than usual, actual waves you can body surf
• Discovered a favorite restaurant with the sweetest people

Whirlwind description of several days adventure I know but the typical verbose elaboration just doesn’t seem my style at the moment. Something I do want to try though is individual review of the restaurants and guesthouses I’m staying at. Given this here world wide intarweb, dissemination of useful travel information is amazingly easy and infinitesimally useful to other travelers (I would know for I am amongst the sect). Besides that more altruistic approach I will concede there are a few that I would simply like to bash upon for their inept offerings

 

Taewez Guesthouse – Thewet, Bangkok
Situated as the last guesthouse in the row on Thanon Si Ayuthaya, it offers an inviting small (or "cozy" if you prefer) dining area with Western and Thai food generally overpriced but not anymore so than typical. Check out the four books in the magazine rack for very personal accounts of travelers to Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand: you’ll find brochures, business cards and hand written notes to future travelers giving tips, recommendations and cautions; quite useful. The double bed AC room, shared bath, for 400B I was booked in was spacious with a tile floor but lacked any life and had the unfortunate positioning on the main walkway (noise) with its one window pointed into the common area (privacy, made worse by sheer low coverage drapes). Very nice staff though.

Tavee Guesthouse – Thewet, Bangkok
First GH in the row on Si Ayuthaya, it features a nicely vegetated exterior and comfortable inside dining area. Different tours and airport taxi are advertised on the wall but were overpriced (head to Khao San). Tavee has the best decor on the block, the rooms are beautiful decked out in wood with a recessed ceiling housing a fan. 400B, shared bath with a double bed; no AC but for the atmosphere I think a better deal. Staff is also nice here and will hold your bags in the back room at no charge. Take one of their business cards with a map, you’ll find it useful for taxis who aren’t familiar with the quiet neighborhood of Thewet. (Pronounced Tae-wet)

Bamboo Bungalows – Ao Yai, Ko Phayam, Ranong
Thoughtfully landscaped bungalows amongst the trees (and their accompanying locusts), Bamboo has offerings from 300B to 1200B. Being the dirty budget backpacker, I settled on the 300B bamboo primitive shack with private squat toilet bath, fixed shower head, no mats, no electric light during the night and an awkwardly hung cut down the middle cloth poorly masquerading as a privacy door. The room, only slightly bigger than the double bed within it, has a numerously holed mosquito net, no natural light whatsoever (and given no power during the day, a problem) and a door that has a slide lock but unfortunately no longer slides to its holes after years of weathering the door has suffered causing it to fall off kilter. Our hut was positioned along the motorcycle track so occasional motor noise was heard. The 500B hut is the same but with a tiled bathroom around a squat toilet. The 1200B room though is gorgeous and highly recommended if you don’t mind plonking down that kind of change. Bamboo does offer some perks to its guests though: free kayak rentals are a serious perk, free wi-fi should be appealing to those who tote a laptop along with them (although I’d suspect that the satellite internet on the island is non too speedy), body boards, surfboards and snorkeling masks and fins are available for a charge as well as currency exchange, boat tickets, convenience store type items and a handy 7B water bottle refill service. The restaurants food is presented very well but unfortunately is lackluster in taste. The Thai food somehow lost all its Thai flavor. Overpriced on top of that. Definitely head next door to Phayam Resort for food, you won’t regret it. Staff is very kind and helpful at Bamboo although a bit resentful after we decided to leave for greener pastures.

Phayam Coconut Bungalows- Ao Yai, Ko Phayam, Ranong
Set close to the beach, Coconut offers bungalows with the quality of Bamboo’s best offering but at half the price (600B). Only drawback, water, or rather, the lack of it at running faucets. Every operation on the island pumps well water but Bamboos pump has likely seen too many seasons and you’ll find during your stay very touch and go water service. After the fifth time of getting the owners to pump more water because we had nothing, not at a drip, we were fed up enough to leave. Water aside, the main sitting area seemed completely lifeless except for the pleasant woman who runs the show. 450B room offered looked comfortable but after our last experience at Bamboo, we were content spending the 600B for the upgrade. Large balcony with two comfortable chairs, even a well thought out sprayer nozzle for washing your feet of sand before entering your abode (everyone hates sand in the house); no hammock though, always a gripe of mine. The room itself is nicely tiled with a private bath with sink, mirror, removable shower head and Western toilet. Room comes with a fan but of course only usable while there’s power (cut at around 10:30). Huge windows at both sides of the bungalow let a nice ocean breeze through and provide heaps of ambient natural light. Room has a mozzie net but unneeded if the windows are closed (all openings are well screened off). This place would be a winner if it weren’t for their water problems and unfortunately also their rasta problems: the rasta bar next door often plays music into all hours of the night. Don’t they get tired of the same songs?!

Phayam Resort (and JJ Restaurant) – Ao Yai, Ko Phayam, Ranong
THE best on Ao Yai. Sure, sure, an easily contested statement but you just can’t go wrong here. The sweetest people I’ve met in all my travels in Thailand: they are always so happy to help out in anyway be it filling up your water bottles with drinking water (for free) or checking on your room in a heavy rain to make sure everything is dry. They were also very happy to practice Thai with me in exchange for a few English words to add to the repertoire. The restaurant is setup right on the sand with prime ocean view and from 12-3 everyday they offer "happy hour" lunch: 50B Thai staple dishes like rad-nha, pad thai or som tam and for an island, that’s a damn good deal. Price aside, their Thai food is actually Thai and entirely delicious. For Westerners wanting their familiar tastes they offer up the usual fare including breakfast foods (although their take on omelets and pancakes has just enough Thai flair to stay interesting). The accommodations are a row of six sturdy wood deck platforms with very large spacious tents with vestibules extended. Main tent area has a full mattress, night table and lamp with just enough space left for storing luggage for two. In the vestibule, two axe pillows and a bamboo chair; a hammock on or near the deck as well. Private bathroom is concrete construction and surprisingly well built and spacious with separate areas for sink, toilet and shower. The staff clean everything with a zealous passion everyday. This place is awesome, especially the staff. Completely amazing, do yourself the favor and stay here

Back home in BKK

Feels strangely like coming back home; here I am, back in BKK. Yesterday coming into the city by taxi and recognizing neighborhoods, streets, storefronts got me very excited. I did certainly need excitement after the hell I’d been through the past day.
I departed my new Couchsurfing friends and it was already rather late and I unfortunately still had to ready all my luggage and bike for the bus and plane trip ahead. I had been given a cardboard box from a convenience store earlier in the day but its integrity was rather questionable despite which, I pressed on. I intended to cram my packed backpack and one pannier into the box to which I would check as my 15kg of allowed luggage and then carry on one pannier and my handlebar bag. Was a nice plan until the packed and taped box would not securely be strapped to my bike and then spectacularly failed into a mess of sheared thing cardboard. Several hours of futile attempts at this cardboard nonsense was eventually given up, I threw in the towel on it and just told myself I’d bring each luggage piece individually and deal with it at the airport. 2am I finally laid to rest. 5am I woke. Choked down some free breakfast white bread despite my stomach still complaining about the durian and made some final preparations to the luggage. I thought it possible to ride my bike from the airport to Refill Now hostel, wasn’t that far, but I needed to know the route; tried to get it from Google Maps but given the terrible internet access I was able to accomplish nothing but wasting loads of time.
Backpack on my back, panniers attached to the bike, seat post lowered, derailleur and chain removed, I wheeled my bike the 1k to the bus station where I was to meet my 6:45 bus to the KLIA low cost carrier terminal to which I already had my ticket. Given all the wasted time, I arrived at the bus station at literally 6:43; glanced around, no Star Shuttles bus in sight. Went to the ticket counter and asked what was up. She took me ticket, then held up her cell phone to show me the time: 6:45 hers read. So…what’s the problem I said, where’s the bus!? Gone, the bus was gone. A sensible bus company would perhaps realize a ticketed passenger was not there yet and hold the bus for what, four, five minutes maybe, but nope, not an Asian bus company. Disappointing but I intentionally booked the earlier bus to give myself plenty of time, good thing I did. Next bus was at 7:30 I was told. Wasted the time by finding a dim sum place and realizing I had a few ringgit to spare, treating myself to some steam buns. Back at the bus terminal at 7:20, still not a bus in sight. The woman who’d rudely shoved her phone in my face to tell me "too bad buddy" was still there but there was now a man as well. The man told me, no 7:30 bus to LCCT. What?! But…she (I pointed) JUST told me there was. He insists now. Best he can tell me is to go to KL Sentral station and get a bus there. Easy by taxi sure..but I have the bike. The next Star Shuttle bus after the 7:30 (that didn’t exist) was 8:15 and given the walk to KL Sentral, the 8:15 would get to this bus station before I’d arrive at Sentral. I need to make my flight I tell the guy and lie to him about my flight time saying it was 20 minutes before it actually was just to make sure I got there on time. No idea what this was about or why this happened but suddenly the argument stopped and I was told to wait, then, was led away from the ticket counter where a few other people were told to stand too. We were now suddenly led to a bus waiting outside the terminal…what the hell. Fine, no idea what that was about but at least I was on my way. I turned the handlebars and took off the front wheel and loaded the bike in the cargo area myself.
We were on our way and given a one hour ride, I would be there with plenty of time to spare. Plenty time given no other problems occurred…..
LCCT had none of the flair major international airports usually have, it was basically just a large lifeless warehouse with little infrastructure. Proceeded to Air Asia’s counter to check my bags and bike. Decided to lash together my panniers and check those, then just carry on my backpack. The bike, I would just give to them as is prepared by myself with the handlebars turned, derailleur and chain removed and air let out of the tires. I thought it was very clever, Air Asia on the other hand didn’t share my admiration. The lackey "helping" me sternly repeated, there is no way they can accept the bike like this. After half a dozen times of this speech, and patiently and politely waiting for half an hour or over while he helped other people, I could only ask "I understand but what do you want me to do, please tell me what I can do". Lackey gives up and calls in the supervisor who frustratingly repeats the same phrase I had heard way too many times. Again, I say I understand, but what can I do. I give my story, that I am riding around SE Asia and there is no way to carry a large bicycle case, what am I to do. I please, we are both human beings, I am just trying to be on my way, please help me, pouring my heart out for any sympathy. None, the guy is without a shred of care. Out of nowhere though, for I don’t know what reason, why now, he says something…new. "You can go over to WRAPPING SERVICES". WRAPPING SERVICES?!? THERE’S A SERVIE FOR WRAPPING THAT YOU’RE JUST NOW TELLING ME ABOUT?!?!
Now, just recounting the story, I can feel my heart racing and blood pressure building. I cannot describe how frustrating an exchange this whole ordeal was.
So utterly upset that this man just now informed me of a service that would’ve avoided this whole mess, I harshly and swiftly lashed out at this disgusting person with an assault of every curse I could muster I figured actually he wouldn’t even know what most of it meant but he actually did and was really offended haha. Stormed off to "wrapping services" and two minutes and eight measly ringgit later ($2.40) my bike was covered in plastic wrap for me by two nice guys who smiled while they worked. The airline employee had explained to me they could not accept the bike because of the liability of the bike possibly damaging other peoples luggage. Now with its plastic wrap later, I’m still not sure how it made a lick of difference. If the bike was so dangerously sharp as to damage someone’s luggage, wouldn’t it be able to pierce less than a millimeter of plastic?

Back to give the now wrapped bike to check in. Apologized the man I had gone off on since there was no point in staying angry. I asked him to please understand where I was coming from, that he could have just simply told me that piece of information from the beginning but I’m nearly certain he still doesn’t understand at all.
Flight was at 10:40, doors were closed at 10:20, I was entering immigration at 10:10. Breezed through the exit stamp, waltzed through security (after surrendering a water bottle I hadn’t thought of, water is a deadly weapon remember) and pinned myself to the tail of the already formed boarding line boarding just in time. My god.
Flight was fortunately uneventful, two hours.
Arrived back in familiar BKK. Was funny to mentally compare myself to the last time I was in that exact same spot, I was so much more at ease; I could tell my pace was slower and I noticed so much more around me. Got my panniers (mysteriously minus the two straps that were holding them together) and my bike still in its magic shiny plastic wrap suit. Changed from sandals to shoes in preparation for the ride but changed my mind mid way and given the neat plastic package the bike was in I was rather sure I could fit it into the backseat of a taxi (I remember last time with the big box they demanded I use a large taxi and pay a ripoff 400B flat fee). This time the fare was only 160+50B which I was happy to pay instead of riding the unfamiliar route out of the airport on the highway in the heat.
Refill Now was just as I remembered it I was greeted by the same beautifully nice guy that saw me off the last time and I exclaimed "I’m back!!". Checked in and got the OK to store my bike and panniers there for the 3 weeks.
After a shower (in the nicest bathroom since I was last showering there), I knew my first mission, find som tam!! Didn’t take long, there was a stand just down the familiar side street I had walked dozens of times before but its funny, I had never even known it was there or what they had to offer because last time I was there, I knew NOTHING about Thai food or how to order anything. Same surroundings, same person, different mind.
Second mission, get money. ATM spat out money without hiccup, fortunately no problems like in Malaysia.
Feeling much more adventurous this time in the city, I hopped on a bus (hopefully) bound for the BTS (train) station. The buses don’t have fare machines or even coin boxes, they have a person that follows you to your seat or standing position and asks where you’re going and takes the fare. Took a bit to realize this system, its not like there’s instructions anywhere. Got off near the station but had to guess at it so still had a walk. Wanted to buy a rail pass this time; tried to get a student one but was denied because they said I looked older than 23; funny I thought since technically I still am 23 for another ten days. Ended up just buying a normal pass, so easy to use, just hold it up to the machine and walk through. Went to the Siam stop just to walk around and eat the various street food. Ended up walking to Pantip Plaza, the crazy computer mall, to indulge my curiosity and see how much netbooks were in Thailand compared to Malaysia. Strangely they were a bit cheaper. I still may end up getting one, we’ll see. I did get an SDHC card reader for 50B and a new screen protector custom cut for my Blackberry (which very strangely they refused to sell to me in Malaysia even if I wanted to cut it myself, was so bizarre).
Back at Refill, I sat in the lounge I’d sat for many hours before and sleepily ate an apple and some sweet rice from the small neighborhood night market. There were a few people I noticed around staying at the hostel but several older couples who looked uninteresting and a few more people who I said hello to but lacked the energy to pursue any further conversation (and perceived their disinterest).
Early sleep and late rise led to a staggering 12 hours rest which felt so amazing especially in such a luxurious setting and nice mattress!
Organized my backpack ready to checkout. Stood back to admire it all packed, it really is incredibly compact, I’m packing very light. Had to remind myself not to wear my one red shirt today, wearing red around Bangkok lately has political connotations I don’t want to get involved with.
Back to the lounge to treat myself with a coffee and the best rice porridge I’ve had in Asia; I had been trying to find one this good for the 2 months I had been gone with no success. Sipped the coffee and noticed something pleasant….it tasted good! Glanced over and smacked my forehead, they have a grinder, its REAL coffee! Real coffee and som tam whenever I want it, must be heaven.

Finished my meal, studied the city map and where I was headed (Thewet) and fielded a call from Rachel who was now at the airport! Honestly so excited, its going to be great to see her and show her all the wonders of SE Asia I’ve been so fortunate already to have received (and of course even more as well).
Pondered my transportation options to Thewet as the train doesn’t go all the way: bus, taxi, water taxi or train+taxi. Bus despite my adventurousness is still too complicated and intimidating, especially without a bus guide (which I want to buy. Taxi is easy but most expensive. Water taxi is alright but I’ll save that for when Rachels here. Scanned the area and thought maybe I could share a taxi with some people to cut costs. Had talked with two guys from the UK while I was eating but I seemed to be doing all the talking and walked away uninterested after a bit. Undeterred I noticed a guy sitting by himself with a drink. Why not say hi and ask what he was planning for the day, maybe he could share a taxi. So I did. Ended up having an hour plus conversation haha. Its so worth it just to take the time and (perceived) risk to talk to "random" people. Nice guy, Tom, on an around the world ticket, has already been to S. Africa and Vietnam (which he said he liked, first time in a while someone liked VN, refreshing). Met his friend Esha who with an infectious smile was a pleasure to talk to also. She’s on a seemingly open ended trip and is only a week in, much is still in store for her. Its exciting now to talk to people who have so much lying in wait still, I get excited for them as silly as that is.
Esha and her friend were to pick up their VN visas that day and had requested the free Refill tuk-tuk to take them to the BTS station, figured I’d take advantage of the free ride to the station at least and join them (Tom came along to get to MBK). The girls got off at their stop, Tom at this and I continued to Victory Monument.
Strolled through the cheapest sunglasses I’ve seen yet (50 baht) will have to remember that since I stupidly lost my cheap pair that were the replacements for my first pair. Cheap cheap food too, bought some 10 baht sweet wide ride noodles and 12 baht pineapple with pink salt. Lots of buses waiting to take people to destinations but without my bus guide, had no idea which to take. Strolled in the direction I wanted to take and at an open stretch of pavement, hailed a passing cab. 60B later and a conversation with a refreshingly pleasant cabbie, I was in the Thewet neighborhood that had sounded nice to me from internet accounts and also a few sentences in various guidebooks I have picked up in bars and guesthouses. It is a nice little neighborhood. Only a handful of guesthouses, right across from a wet market and various food stalls. Prices are a little high I thought after doing my shopping amongst three places; settled on an AC double for 400B, best deal I found.
Rained here! In the morning and then a lot more in the afternoon. Figured it would be dry still this far north but guess not. Hope at least its drier than Malaysia and south Thailand.
Tomorrow I am heading to the airport to meet Rachel when she arrives!! Maybe I’ll make an arrival sign (you know, the type with someone’s last name). We’ll head back here to Thewet and explore the city together!

Couchsurfers and Blackjack Scams

 

Too tired to write this arghh.

 

Okay…ah, refreshed. Last night I brought out my portable keyboard and sat intending to recount the past several days but after absently staring at the blank screen for ages I managed to only squeeze out the above statement. Having only 2-3 hours of sleep the night prior, I can understand why.
Ended my extended stay in KL yesterday with the same fondness with which I entered but with an added bit of sourness thrown in (from various angles which, rest assured,  I of course will explain in my usually thorough and verbose manner).
Trekker Lodge ended up being an enjoyable experience and I would recommend them. Positives are the out of the way quiet location which is still very centrally located in Bukit Bintang and cheap aircon dorms. I’m tempted to mention the free internet and breakfast as pros but the internet connection never reliably worked and "breakfast", or rather a creative of interpretation of the meal, was sliced white bread and instant coffee. On both accounts though, better than nothing at least and the breakfast area was at least a place for people to gather and meet each other.

I spent most of my days doing nothing in particular. Had a daily meal of the best naan bread I’ve ever had in my life. Usually the bread and dahl was all I needed (which it seemed to the chagrin of the shop owners which always seemed uncomfortable that I didn’t order something else, cheap whitey). Found Indian sweets in Little India as well and was in heaven.

 

I’m not sure if I mentioned prior, I probably did, but my Washington Mutual ATM card refused to work, not even once, in Malaysia. Because of which, I of course could not pull out money. I fortunately had Thai baht I could convert and then after that was depleted, US dollars I could convert as well but I felt these US dollars were my "emergency fund" and hoped to avoid using them as much as possible. The back of my ATM card kindly informs you you can call them collect if travelling internationally, the only challenge was however, finding out how the hell you even do that. Internationally it seems people have no idea what collect calls are; I queried dozens of people on the subject and received blank stares in return. After a lot of internet sleuthing, it seems the only way to call collect internationally is to find a "telecom office" with a human being and request it from them; that was yet another adventure to figure out and when I finally did, they were closed. Forget it, gave up; by that time I only had a few more days to go before I left back to Thailand where I knew it worked.

So as I was saying, I did nothing in particular, and now you can understand a bit more why: I was on a strict budget of only a few ringgit a day of my remaining funds. Cheapest thing to do in the big city: walk around, take pictures and people watch, all of which I did plentifully.
On one particular outing, having investigated the KL tower but turned back after they wanted nearly 50MR to ascend to the top, I strolled aimlessly until a woman dressed sharply sitting with a friend, said hello and asked where I was from, a conversation I’ve had nearly everyday of my trip. Conversation deepened as this friendly woman asked me about all manner of topics mostly focused around the US. I mentioned LA in passing and saw as she lit up and explained that her cousin was moving to the LA area soon to become a nurse. While explaining she reached into her purse and pulled out a small slip of paper with an address in Beverly Hills which glancing at, I told I knew the area but not the hospital. So excited she, got on her phone to speak to her cousin and asked me pleadingly if I would be so kind as to talk to her cousin to reassure her and discuss the US before she left; we could all meet for lunch. Having nothing else to do, having a heart always willing to help and an interest in meeting people, I said I would be glad to help.
I’ve told this story now a number of times to various people and this is the only part that in retrospect, I feel ashamed at but of course and especially for this whole chain of events, hindsight is 20/20.
I got into their car. I was taken not far from the city, near Malori MRT station, to a non descript house in a row of other non descript houses with which if you asked me again to find, I could never tell you. Into the nicely furnished house, I was sat on a couch and a cup of tea offered to me which I accepted. A man walked in who was referred to as "uncle" despite their ages being too similar; I figured it was a nickname or term of endearment like in Indian culture. The man was very pleased to meet me and was excited to say I was the first foreigner ever to his home. He apologizes that the girl I’m supposed to meet is still at the hospital visiting someone ill and will be here shortly. This guy was even friendlier than the last quickly launching into a thorough conversation of politics, life and the US all in very good English. Twenty minutes of conversation, a plate of noodles given to me with my tea, the man within which explains when talking about California that he has never been but went to Las Vegas for his work one time; he explains he works in the Genting Highlands for a casino. Conversation shifted to gambling: Do I gamble? What’s my favorite game? Etc etc. I of course don’t enjoy gambling much and talk a little about craps and some of the pros of that game (crowd enthusiasm, length of play). "Uncle" asks me if they have a game in the US called "Continental 21" (or "Continental Blackjack"). Never heard of it I say. He describes it as a mix between blackjack and poker and eventually asks if I’d like to learn. Sure, why not I indulge. He says its easier if its shown to me and then says something else unintelligible to me and grabs a deck of cards from a bookcase. He motions me to follow him into his lawyer wife’s office and I’m taken just around the corner to a very small air conditioned room, the size of a bathroom, with a 4 drawer black filing cabinet and a small table with padded green felt draped across it. He says his wife discusses legal briefs with clients in the room and after additional querying says the felt was being thrown away from the casino and he opportunistically took a little.
Charismatically the man lays out cards and explains the game to me. The original woman I met enters the room 5 minutes later to come watch. We run through some practice games where I’m told what the face card and next card are and asked what I should. He asks if the game is easy and of course it is when you know the cards. "Aha" he says. Eyebrow raised I question. He leans over to me and repeats what he said earlier which I couldn’t understand: "Do you believe there is a way to win 100% of the time at a casino". Taken back quite a bit, really wondering what the heck this guy is talking about; I say something along the lines of "If you know the cards then yes I suppose so". The exchange went on this vein until he explained he was to go the bathroom and that I should talk with this woman about how I could know about what the cards were. So utterly confused at this point, I look at this woman and ask if she knows what the heck this is about. She shrugs and seems as confused as I am. The man returns and asked if we figured it out then playfully chastises us for not doing our homework for not knowing. He now begins his lesson of explaining how, he, the dealer, can tell me, the player, of every face down and next card. He teaches a set of hand signals which is basically counting with one hand in binary (thumb is the value one, then each reaming 4 fingers is a value of two and palm up is ten). I thought it clever. Then of course the more obvious thought: why would a dealer do this.
He got down to the nitty gritty after this. He said perhaps sometime I would go to his casino and to the VIP room, where there were no cameras he said, and I would be given 30 minutes maybe an hour at his table. This whole situation is just so beyond weird and now its just humorous how ridiculous; I’m still very curious about this whole mystery and ask if he’s ever done something like this before. He says, eight years ago, only once. He saw a German man who consistently lost at his table and after the dealers shift, he met the German at the bar and learned the German hardly even knew how to play and had lost all of his savings. Feeling pity for the man, the dealer asked if he could visit the man later and perhaps he could win back his losses. They met and the plan was set and performed without a hitch; the German won back his losses and then some and opened up a business in Germany and now comes back every year to KL to see his now life long friend the dealer. A touching story of cheating. There’s little segue after that and the man is blathering away about a rich Mahjong player that he’s picking up later and something about cheating this guy with the new "trick" I’ve been taught. I’m rather unclear about these details because I was honestly tuning it all out and just wanting to get the hell out of there.
Once this guy is finally done running his mouth I politely bluff and indicate this is all moving very quickly and that perhaps I’ll be ready when given some more time. The man, equally as politely, rises and says no problem, shaking my hand with a smile and I’m whisked out of the tiny room and out of the door.
On the way out, I ask "What about the girl that’s going to be a nurse?". They give a response, some sort of excuse, I don’t even remember. In the car they ask for my e-mail address, I guess to meet up later and talk to her. I’m asked if its OK I’m dropped off at the MRT (train) station and even asked if I need some change to the fare. Dropped right at the station, and off they went.
……Bizarre I thought, totally bizarre. Totally unsure of what the heck just happened and why. Times like these are some of the few I wish I wasn’t traveling alone: you really want to discuss experiences with someone. Fortunately I had some time left on my mobile and Rachel was but a call away. Took the train back to the city and recounted the whole thing. She thought it sounded rather fishy, with which I agreed, but there were certain details I thought too strange and unique to be some sort of scam and they seemed rather innocent although the man being dishonest for wanting to defraud a casino. My thoughts were either that this man wanted to defraud the casino he was not happy with or perhaps take a cut of the winnings or perhaps simply set me up then turn me in. All I knew was that I wanted no part in it.
Later is when I felt like a complete and utter fool. I searched Google for "kuala lumpur blackjack scam" and was bombarded with results all frighteningly identical experiences to my own. People from all over the world has written on their internet their own accounts of the same scam I somehow got involved in and they all read the same: approached on the street (somewhere in SE Asia: KL, BKK, Siem Reap, Bali) and taken to a home by very friendly people and propositioned to cheat a casino. The other common thread amongst all were that no one was every threatened or force used against them and same for myself: I never once felt threatened. It wasn’t until I got on the internet that I even fully realized what had just happened. If I let their entanglement continue past the point I cut it off, I learned they would have arranged a game between myself and this "Mahjong player" in which I would believe I was winning big then all of a sudden I would make a huge bet and lose it all when my "friends" pulled the rug from under me and cheated the cheater by changing the cards. The experience was bewildering, somewhat funny but tinged with only one scary aspect: my "host’s" tea offering, was likely drugged. I read this detail in some of the internet accounts and still back in the tiny room I will never forget, I felt strange, not right. The moment I started feeling this way I even wanted to get out even more though; I suppose it had the opposite effect than desired by them.
I know after reading all this, some of you, namely my mom, will get a little worked up and be even more afraid for my safety. I don’t know if I can assure you any but I can say this: you can either go through life afraid and sheltered or open and accepting to the good in people (however deep sometimes) and I choose the latter. Time and time again I have experienced (and written about) the hospitality and extreme kindness of local people along my travels. I am friendly, open and generally trusting and this has revealed to me countless amazingly unforgettable experiences…and then also this one more unfortunate one. But was it all that unfortunate? I did come out alive, healthy, with even all my posessions (slightly funny since as you know, I had very little money for them to take anyway and had an ATM card that didn’t even work). What I did come out with was quite the story and a good lesson about life that cost nothing but a few hours of time.
All of it was a lie though, all of it. The cousin, the interest, the friendliness, all a disturbingly elaborate lie. The night after the event I was racked with questions: Why would people do this? How could they have no remorse? Did they not feel for these innocent friendly people they were stealing from? Why were the police not cracking down on this? Were they so friendly and non threatening so police reports aren’t filed? So many questions, still more and more.
Rocked a bit by the experience, but still determined to enjoy the city, I continued my stay not much differently than before (although you won’t find me getting into cars so easily). Another day with nothing to do and no money to spend, I made an impulse post to the KL message board on CouchSurfing.com explaining that I was in the city only one more day and wanted to meet some locals that weren’t out to scam me. I was so pleased at the response! I got so many SMSs from people wanting to show me the town and have a drink. I first met Phang and his new wife (married only 5 days!) and he very graciously treated me to lunch at a great Chinese place with tasty delicious grilled fish and showed me his pictures from a recent China and Vietnam trip he had gone on.

Only an hour or so later, I got a call from another CSer and we arranged to meet up in Bukit Bintang. I SMSed all the others who contacted me and told them to meet me at the same place. At first it was just two us but that grew to three then to four! Was such a great time meeting all these local people and going out to eat, going to the night market and then trying my first durian with them! I think they were anticipating my disgust of the notoriously stinky fruit but I actually enjoyed it! Figures since I never did find its odor stinky at all; still don’t understand why people think that, I guess its very personal. I did only have two pieces though, its very very rich and those mere two pieces did play a bit of havoc with my stomach later. The texture of the fruit is its most distinct quality: divinely smooth like a very fine brie cheese. So grateful to end my stay in KL on such a good note (especially with what happened prior); couchsurfing is such an amazing resource!!

 
This has been a huge post already and I still have so much more to recount, I think its best to separate it out Meet me at the next post….I dare you

Kay El

I expected to be in the infamously massive and modern capital at some point but not this soon. As a lot of decisions come to be, it was made in but a flash (after a rather tumultuous prior couple of days).
Still in Kuala Kangsar, my usual alarm had me semi-conscious but some persistent stomach pain and a lack of sleep due to possible bed bug related itching had me also quickly reaching for the "dismiss" button and grabbing another few hours of sleep; ended up just managing to make it out of the room by 12p checkout.

Did some online sleuthing and found the last bus from Ipoh to Tanah Rata (Cameron Highlands) was at 7p; no sweat, plenty of time. At least it did seem so…
My fancy expensive bookstore map had an intriguing yellow line drawn from K.Kangsar to Ipoh that was quite direct; halved the distance compared to route 1. The curious part was that this didn’t appear on usually reliable Google Maps. I investigated at the tourist information center where plenty of time was wasted having them first understand where they live even looks like on a map and then after that, letting them have a debate on whether the road exists or not. No real conclusion arrived, I decided to take the safe bet and go along the signed route 1. Stopped for laksa soup as my stomach had settled (but later complained again). Usual afternoon rain arrived and fortunately found cover. under a bridge. Was oddly a cold rain: one I was not keen to ride in; I waited it out for over an hour. Later on down 1, heard the now familiar tune of Indian ceremonial instruments and saw a Hindu temple that seemed ripe to investigate. Ran into the temple priest/leader who spoke great English and had a peculiar interest in California fiscal policy. Invited me in in the usual open and friendly Indian way mentioning that my presence was an honor and to feel free taking any pictures; gotta love it.

You can imagine though, after all this, time was no longer very plentiful. Glancing at my bike computer I realized I still had 25k to go but only an hour fifteen to do it in. I felt it was hopeless, then noticed my 28km/hr speed and felt I could do it so I continued to press on (not like there was much choice anyway). I arrived in Ipoh about 10 minutes til but as I’d feared in my head, there was no locating the bus station in 10 minutes, the city was massive and confusing. Short stop at an internet cafe to take a rest and study the Google Map for the city so I could now find a place to crash. My minimalist hand drawn map guidebook indicated a YMCA with 15R dorm beds right across from a large park; shouldn’t be too hard to find I imagined. With two maps, two frustrating hours in the dark and too many requests for directions, I finally arrived at the YMCA.
My hopes of a 15R dorm bed though were a bit high as apparently they were no longer. An extremely gruff tired looking man at the desk informed me of 55R private double rooms available and that there was absolutely nothing cheaper available (including, in his audacity, to claim nothing cheaper in the whole city). The guy was a tremendous jerk; talking with his friend and looking in my direction I’m sure nothing nice was said. This is why the next action was all the more strange: upon remaining polite and saying "thank you anyway" and mounting my bicycle ready to leave, the man comes back outside and indicates to me "come, come". He walks me to the building next door which has a lobby sort of room with a few couches and he points to the vinyl one offering it for sleep. Why this change of heart, I have no clue, especially after the sincere gruffness but regardless, I am more than happy to cease my frustrating search through the city and rest my head. Wasn’t bad, I even had a shower to use and couldn’t argue with the price.

Started the day early, mostly to vamoose before people would see my vagrant self making residence in the YMCA lobby. The city seemed a lot different in the day time but still horrendously confusing. Signage is terrible and the main streets are one way. I really do despise Ipoh. To appease my spirits, I sought out dim sum which was a delicious gift to myself. I chose the most crowded place I could find, every table filled with Chinese families having breakfast. Entering I suddenly turned intimidated though realizing I had no idea how this even worked and couldn’t occupy a table with just myself. Fortunately, I got the attention of a nice Chinese woman who I kindly and coyly requested instructions on what exactly I was supposed to do. If there’s one thing I’ve learned it’s to let go of your pride and just let others help you.
Visited a Chinese clinic as well to have the doctor check out my leg (football injury) as there was still a bump that was painful to the touch. He seemed to think it was from internal bleeding and there was a clot now; nothing to be worried about though he says prescribing to me simple anti-inflammatory and some special enzyme (serratiopeptidase) which I thought rather exciting considering I’d never been prescribed an enzyme before. Could be all in my head but the bump seems already much smaller and less painful (enzyme power!).
Another longer than expected confusing ride through the city to the bus station (or at least A bus station which I later found out). Bus to Cameron Highlands left at 11a, no problem, ticket was cheap too, nice. Only problem, my trend of finding the assholes to talk to was continuing. The man behind the barred and glassed in counter was so hostile and unhelpful it could possibly be my worst experience yet. Even just asking the times the bus left and the price the man already seemed angry at me but when I mentioned I had a bicycle, woo, it was over. He quickly went into a fevered tone informing me "NO BICYCLE!". But "I can take it apart" I explained and "I’ve taken it on other buses before" I pleaded and finally my last ditch effort of offering to buy multiple tickets to cover for the bicycle. When not even this worked on the guy, I knew it was hopeless. I returned to a position in front of my bicycle resting my weight on it a bit and treating the space as if it was my personal office to where I would have space to think a bit. Even now I’m surprised at how quick this thinking came about but I basically just said screw it, I’m going straight to KL (and by bus). Exiting my "office" and back to the insanely rude bus guy, I asked about buses to KL. "Other station!" I was jabbed. Crap, another station, ok. Silly me for asking I guess but I inquired about how to get to this station. This was apparently just too much for this gentleman as his grimace somehow turned darker, lowering his head and exclaiming "I cannot tell you", then throwing up his arms, backing away slowly out of the booth and to his area of sulkdom where he lit up a cigarette. Hard to keep any semblance of a positive attitude after something like this and especially disconcerting when you have no travel companion to discuss how crazy that was and then laugh about it. I wanted out of this damn city more than ever now.
Of course the city had to have the last laugh, the second bus station was not on any of the maps I had and ended up being 15k south of the city center (whoever planned this horrendous city is some real sadist). With the help of a fortunately and refreshingly nice gas station cashier (who was a woman I might add, I always have just fine interactions with women, its men who give me the problems), I found my way to Medan Gopeng bus station, apparently the main station with service to KL.
Total opposite of the interaction and atmosphere at the other station; several very loud ticket agents vied for my attention and were eager to let my money pass onto them. The bike was no problem whatsoever to them and hell, I even loaded it into the luggage area of the bus myself (and it fit no problem).
Relaxed in a very surprisingly comfortable AC bus, I finally could start to come down from the last couple days. Headphones on, chair reclined, gaze set on the limestone hills.
Kuala Lumpur is huge; its massive. The sprawl started 20k outside the city center. I had wondered a bit what I would do being dropped off at the bus station with exactly ZERO information about where I was or where to stay but figured it would just work out (which it did). The bus made its stop prior to the bus station strangely, dumping us passengers off at a traffic island which I was forced to use as the location to rebuild the bike (I’m sure turning it into a stage for passersby to look although I never looked to confirm this).
The main street we were on was one way so it wasn’t difficult to decide which direction to head. I already started noticing all sorts of hotels, both ritzy and backpacker. Comfortingly, in KL things are much more "normal" in the sense that there is a traveler scene built up in the surrounding area of the bus station (which I’ve learned now is the Bukit Bintang area). So I did was I had done many times before, cruise about until I found the smattering of accommodation options a couple blocks off the main street for some quiet. Settled on "Trekkers Lodge" which has dorm beds for 23R a night which is a nice price but consider the free internet and breakfast and very pleasant kitchen and lounge area, its quite the deal. Just out the door I can see both the KL Tower and Petronas Towers which really do look spectacular at night.
I’ve only been here a short time but I’ve already acquired quite the fondness to the city. It’s very walkable and there are light rail options everywhere! I’m happy to take a bike break and take advantage of the great public transit. All this on top of the cheap lodging and tasty cheap food makes the city a clear winner for me.
Tomorrow I’m thinking of picking up a transit pass and just exploring the light rail system seeing where I end up. I’m here for the next five nights so plenty of time to explore!

Finger food

When eating with Indians, all food is suddenly finger food. It somehow isn’t easy dropping the imprinted Western demand for dinner table etiquette (at least for me); it was rather awkward. David snuck an embarrassing picture mid shovel and now that I have the benefit of seeing, I can understand a bit more why my small audience of little girls was giggling.

So today I got back on the road! Back to routine but a sad goodbye to David and his amazing hospitality. I’m sure I could have stayed there for _months_ if I asked him and been just assimilated into his family and friends; truly an amazing human being. He rode with me 20k south before parting ways; before which of course I was given yet another meal, oh my god so much food! I seriously was fed nonstop; I need to take a serious break from competition eating and get back to basics.
Settled on Kuala Kangsar as my destination for the day; 80k ride with a 3k gradual climb along some nice small waterfalls.

Not sure what all these flags were about but I think they have something to do with a political group that probably would not like whities like myself and my Israel loving comrades, whoops.

Tentatively the plan is to ride the 50k more to Ipoh and then hop on a bus same day to Cameron Highlands. From there, don’t know; all I really know is that I have only a week more in Malaysia and have to be choosy about what I do (and of course be back in KL for the flight). Speaking of the capital, I’ve found it a bit strange that it’s almost unanimously referred to as "KL" and never its full name "Kuala Lampur". I figured this would be some tourist thing non locals used but its near universal.
Haven’t done anything here yet besides find the budget place to stay in town and reluctantly converse with a disgusting older man from New Zealand with an attitude more rancid than burning rubbish. He’s one of those guys who thinks Pattaya is paradise; that’s prety much sufficient summary for anyone who knows even a little about Pattaya.
The past few days with David have been amazing; so many unforgettable experiences that I felt so fortunate to be a part of.
Day three of my stay, David lead me through his usual fishing town haunts; this is a ride that he takes most visitors but it also varies each time.

The fishing villages are a bustle of Chinese and Malay going about their daily business of catching, hawking, chopping and drying all manner of creatures from the sea. Stingrays seemed to be in demand as they were everywhere. They even use their skins for purses (like leather) and the bones for grinding into a calcium supplement.

 

In another little village, saw a giant roaring tumbler machine that sorted some kind of clam like mollusk. David had the roadside vendor grab some to cook up and try. Not bad but I preferred mine drowned in chili sauce.

Bridge over one of the larger towns afforded some nice views

In town we made a stop at a Chinese "kedai kopi" (a coffee shop/restaurant) to see some of David’s Chinese friends. Before I even stepped into the place I could hear and see flashes of these people and knew this would not be pleasant. All four of them were clearly plastered; one already in a dreary state on the verge of blackout that I swore would tumble out of his chair at any moment. It wasn’t long after I was given a place amongst them to be seated that a shirtless stringy tattooed Chinese man was grabbing my arm with more force than I was comfortable with and displaying proudly for me the bottle of alcohol they were imbibing in the middle of the day repeating the words "Chinese, Chinese"; I guess indicating the origin of the liquor (which given the Chinese characters was not very hard to figure out). I was poured an enormous glass of the stuff which was nearly raised to my lips for me by this pushy man. Putridly foul and my god, they had already gone through 6 bottles of the stuff. The pressure to consume this terrible Chinese liquor was relentless; I can only guess that they, especially this one man, wanted me to be as "happy" as they were as quick as possible. Happy wouldn’t exactly be my choice descriptive word for them: a lot more along the lines of "sad". There was no way I was going to be pressured into drinking the amounts they desired me to especially given both the terrible taste and worse atmosphere. I switched seats with David to distance myself from this menace of a man but it did little good. Thankfully David got the hint (he was even perturbed at this point) and we made our escape. We both made our apologies about the situation but I knew we were on the same page and no worries were to be had; onward!
Another visit to a group of David’s friends but such a difference in quality. We were seated amongst coconut palms where the infamous coconut wine I had tried earlier was being brewed. I saw how the seasoned collector scaled the palm trunk with ease arriving at a coconut flower that has been bound with string to prevent it from opening. Over this, a vessel had been placed to collect a sweet liquid that would accumulate over time.

They let this juice sit out to ferment; sugar to alcohol. The resulting beverage is actually not that alcoholic, at least it doesn’t taste like it, but from hanging about the place for the rest of the day I had a feeling that they simply weren’t fermenting it very long as there was constant demand from thirsty patrons at the makeshift table arrangements. Its a great place for friends to all come together actually. Everyone shares from a few pitchers of the coconut wine and most people seem to bring some sort of food item that is then shared amongst everyone. My favorite food I would have never guessed: monitor lizard! It’s quite tasty..no really, it is!

We saw a few cross our path during the ride today; big suckers.
 
Nice look going on there Dan:

Next morning, nonstop adventure continuing, we set out to the water to catch us some crab! I figured we’d be meeting some fishermen there who but David actually has all the gear; he brought his own traps.
 
The traps are baited and set out at low tide. If I understand correctly, as the tide rises the crabs start making their way closer in. After the traps were set, the only thing left to do was wait (and in my case, nap). Despite David claiming the bait wasn’t the right type, he caught eight crabs!

David is constantly keeping his ear to the ground listening for any news of upcoming weddings or festivals to attend. It happened to be that he caught wind of a fire walking and piercing ceremony! Hugely lucky on my part, it happens but once a year (and on top of that all the other things I had already seen!).
Out of this world! Never would have imagined I’d see such things in my life. Before the main gathering and fire walking, by the river bank devotees, both Indian and Chinese, gathered to prepare offerings atop banana leaves as spectators gathered around (myself being the only foreigner). Offerings placed, a band assembled to play traditional Indian instruments; all of which are mesmerizing to listen to, you can really feel the music in you. Buzzing and pounding music at full tempo, you can feel that something is about to happen and could see a crowd forming around one of the priests. The man who was, I assumed, to be the recipient of this ceremony, was surrounded by people who seemed to be psyching him up while the music played. He then, for lack of better words, went crazy. David tells me its a "trance" state they enter. In his trance, he was taken to the ground and dozens of shiny hooks suddenly appeared and each was sank into the skin of his back all the while not a drop of blood shed (!?!). Back to his feet, a five foot or so metallic rod with trident looking ends was about to be slid through his waiting cheeks. Seeing it slide through his mouth it was hard to even tell if what was happening was real.
 

A few of the younger guys took the festival as an excuse to do a bit of drinking; this drunk guy with a snake demanded a picture which I obliged; cheers drunk guys

I noticed how I by far wasn’t the only one shooting pictures. Other native Indians had their phones and cameras out snapping away this obviously being as much of a spectacle to them as it was to me. I thought it was a bit of a strange contrast between the modern moment capturing technology of cameras to what seemed like such an ancient and serious ritual ceremony.

The riverside festivities wrapped up and a procession was lead to the temple headed by two bulls pulling something I don’t know the name of but I suppose it’s closest relative is a parade float.
 
The temple, throngs of people now gathered, was where the fire walking would occur. Earlier in the day huge piles of wood were burned and now all that was left was a 40ft strip of smoldering coals. There was more ceremony, more entranced people and then, the walk. Some rushed across to reach the water pit on the other side I’m sure their feet were dying for while others made an almost casual stroll across the fiery walkway. I was quite a bit away from the coals but I could still feel the intense heat.
 

Like I said before, truly unforgettable. I was so grateful of David having shared this experience with me. I truly am lucky.

 

Off topic but I grabbed all of David’s pictures and he had one of the cyclists and I back on Penang

Bunch of scrawny guys there, must be cyclists indeed

Famous David: Parit Buntar

Had a nice final day on Penang teaming up with the German cyclists I met, Chris and Franz. Incidentally ran into them at the local high end bike shop where I was shopping for 700Cx35 tubes (which have been a royal pain to find and have yet to be sourced; settled with 700Cx25 for lack of better options). Splurged on some Kool Stop brake pads as well; since the rains, my braking performance has been rather awful. What a difference, should’ve done it sooner!

Chris and Franz had all the Penang knowledge, where I had none, so I was lead on their tour through the city. Checked out the malls which are frighteningly Western (and chilly thanks to the enormous AC system). Finally was able to purchase a Malaysia map (although overpriced). I was lucky enough to be let in on quite the secret for cheap and delicious vegetarian eats (and all you can eat!) in Penang, Annalakshmi Temple of Fine Arts. All the waiters are volunteers and it is a pay as you wish type affair, donation recommended but optional and all proceeds going to charity. It’s actually a fantastic organization they’re running for those in need (although everyone there was very well to do); they have free doctors consultations on certain days as well. We settled on 5RM for each of us.

We rode to the botanical gardens to generally chill out. Nice green well kept park with small waterfalls and paths heavily utilized by upper middle class Malaysians looking for some exercise. Franz was smart enough to pack a frisbee which was thoroughly taken advantage of. I may just have to purchase and stow such a disc in my luggage for nice occasions such as that one (after all, everyone loves a good game frisbee of course).

Evening was finished in Little India: food to die for, the best nann I think I’ve ever had. I suppose I should also give mention to deserts as they have been a mainstay of my travels: Indian deserts are amazing! Try the “balls” filled with dried fruits and an array of spices.

Next morning, right on time, famous David with his homestay in Parit Buntar, was outside the 75 Guesthouse already chatting with Chris, Franz and an English cyclist who seemed nice but never got his name. Our goodbyes said, David and I set off at a casual pace through Georgetown, onto the ferry (which was free going that direction) and onto the busy highway. I had some dim sum in the morning at my favorite breakfast and lunch joint in Penang, Angel Cafe on Love Ln near Chulia, but couldn’t say no to David’s invitation for another breakfast meal. Breakfast (round two) was right next to a Hindu temple and David introduced me to a typical Indian breakfast, which I’m unfortunately unsure of the name, but it was dense and moist ovaloid bread rounds that were broken apart and used to scoop up various sauces; delicious.

Again, the age old battle of graciousness; I was again treated to this meal and in fact all meals thus far. David has been a spectacularly generous host. On the one hand I am so overly gracious of these gifts given to me but I can’t help but feel it is my responsibility to rightfully pay. I’m trying to do what I can to return all the favors by working on his website and maybe working on his bike in addition to leaving at least some money.

I’ve been fed like crazy since I’ve been here! So much good food!!

The night I got in David took me to his friends house where I received a very warm welcome and quickly was introduced to a “coconut wine” that fell somewhere in the continuum of noxious, interesting and delightful. Indian families, generally quite large; this one was no exception. Many daughters hung about, some seeming intrigued in some way by my presence, was a tad awkward. Indian pop was boomed from tinny speakers and of course I was roped into dancing. Despite the few cups of coconut wine was also a tad awkward but sure was good for a laugh by all parties.

David has a specially constructed addition to his home where there are two full beds specifically designated for all the touring cyclists who pass through (the number of which now exceeds something like 170!). All the stories of people he has met is quite inspiring; his whole person and story is inspiring in general, what a great guy, it can’t be said enough.

Today, I was treated to another traditional breakfast and started a day of what was basically a private led tour! We took his car as I was told there was an Indian wedding we were to attend mid-day and cycling would be too difficult. The elaborately put together wedding was rather educational; very fascinating the rituals. Beautiful saris and dresses also. I’m also just so taken back often of the beauty of Indian women; some are just stunning in a way I can’t describe. Supposedly these wedding ceremonies are insanely expensive; so much so it basically bankrupts the couple. Seems oddly familiar to Western culture (in that regard at least). We were treated to a buffet lunch which seemed to be the only reason for some of the guests presence. Really in a way, with the frequencies of these weddings, it’s a way of feeding the community; the process is very communal.

This was a Chinese cemetery seen from the roadside:

 

And a gigantic statue from a Hindu temple inconspicuously tucked deep into an oil palm plantation. Very peaceful surrounds which I was told by David, a cyclist couple even requested to camp there to practice yoga because it was just so tranquil.

More education: I had asked David what the story was with the white, beige and red “paint” that Indians applied to their faces. The explanation, as I understood it, was that it was ash which represented the life cycle (as in a reminder that we shall all be turned back to the ash from which we came one day). Also, the application of these is a social mechanism that signals to others that you have been to a temple. In a way I suppose it makes people aware of your piety. Reminds me of an “I voted” sticker (gross oversimplification I know haha). Here’s David:

 

Another roadside stop: a charcoal “factory”. Never knew how charcoal was produced, now I do. I figured the charcoal would be used for burning, barbecues and such, but I was told most of it goes to Japan to fuel the cosmetics industry; interesting.

 

Final stop for the day was at an old Chinese man’s cluttered and packed shopspace littered with all manner of old bicycle parts. His specialty is in British bikes like Raleigh and MG which were plentiful to obtain after the British occupation was over. This guy was a real character, loved to talk, and despite not having a very good understanding of Bahasa, picked up on a few things. It’s interesting about the languages in Malaysia: David speaks Tamil, bike guy speaks Chinese but as a common lingual ground, they speak Bahasa Malayu and both understands. The bike collector (which I wish I could attach a real name to), showed me his shop, all his collections, proudly stopping at certain ones to show the detail. This all was a real treat for me, right up my alley. Upon learning that I had owned a bike shop, he seemed excited and started rifling through his drawers eager to gift to me some hard to find British nuts and bolts (which I agreed, were very hard to find in new condition like this; they are the type that are commonly used on Sturmey Archer shifters mounts and brake lever mounts). He also gifted both David and I old looking drinking glasses with an old Mobil logo on them; apparently once handed out as gifts at petrol stations when you bought a certain amount of petrol.

 

Been having just an amazing time; so thankful I have such a gracious host, I really am lucky. I hope to one day, somehow, pay back David for all his open hearted hospitality. And if you somehow have the opportunity to stop by and see David, whether you’re a backpacker or cyclist, DO IT. You will not regret it.