Back home in BKK

Feels strangely like coming back home; here I am, back in BKK. Yesterday coming into the city by taxi and recognizing neighborhoods, streets, storefronts got me very excited. I did certainly need excitement after the hell I’d been through the past day.
I departed my new Couchsurfing friends and it was already rather late and I unfortunately still had to ready all my luggage and bike for the bus and plane trip ahead. I had been given a cardboard box from a convenience store earlier in the day but its integrity was rather questionable despite which, I pressed on. I intended to cram my packed backpack and one pannier into the box to which I would check as my 15kg of allowed luggage and then carry on one pannier and my handlebar bag. Was a nice plan until the packed and taped box would not securely be strapped to my bike and then spectacularly failed into a mess of sheared thing cardboard. Several hours of futile attempts at this cardboard nonsense was eventually given up, I threw in the towel on it and just told myself I’d bring each luggage piece individually and deal with it at the airport. 2am I finally laid to rest. 5am I woke. Choked down some free breakfast white bread despite my stomach still complaining about the durian and made some final preparations to the luggage. I thought it possible to ride my bike from the airport to Refill Now hostel, wasn’t that far, but I needed to know the route; tried to get it from Google Maps but given the terrible internet access I was able to accomplish nothing but wasting loads of time.
Backpack on my back, panniers attached to the bike, seat post lowered, derailleur and chain removed, I wheeled my bike the 1k to the bus station where I was to meet my 6:45 bus to the KLIA low cost carrier terminal to which I already had my ticket. Given all the wasted time, I arrived at the bus station at literally 6:43; glanced around, no Star Shuttles bus in sight. Went to the ticket counter and asked what was up. She took me ticket, then held up her cell phone to show me the time: 6:45 hers read. So…what’s the problem I said, where’s the bus!? Gone, the bus was gone. A sensible bus company would perhaps realize a ticketed passenger was not there yet and hold the bus for what, four, five minutes maybe, but nope, not an Asian bus company. Disappointing but I intentionally booked the earlier bus to give myself plenty of time, good thing I did. Next bus was at 7:30 I was told. Wasted the time by finding a dim sum place and realizing I had a few ringgit to spare, treating myself to some steam buns. Back at the bus terminal at 7:20, still not a bus in sight. The woman who’d rudely shoved her phone in my face to tell me "too bad buddy" was still there but there was now a man as well. The man told me, no 7:30 bus to LCCT. What?! But…she (I pointed) JUST told me there was. He insists now. Best he can tell me is to go to KL Sentral station and get a bus there. Easy by taxi sure..but I have the bike. The next Star Shuttle bus after the 7:30 (that didn’t exist) was 8:15 and given the walk to KL Sentral, the 8:15 would get to this bus station before I’d arrive at Sentral. I need to make my flight I tell the guy and lie to him about my flight time saying it was 20 minutes before it actually was just to make sure I got there on time. No idea what this was about or why this happened but suddenly the argument stopped and I was told to wait, then, was led away from the ticket counter where a few other people were told to stand too. We were now suddenly led to a bus waiting outside the terminal…what the hell. Fine, no idea what that was about but at least I was on my way. I turned the handlebars and took off the front wheel and loaded the bike in the cargo area myself.
We were on our way and given a one hour ride, I would be there with plenty of time to spare. Plenty time given no other problems occurred…..
LCCT had none of the flair major international airports usually have, it was basically just a large lifeless warehouse with little infrastructure. Proceeded to Air Asia’s counter to check my bags and bike. Decided to lash together my panniers and check those, then just carry on my backpack. The bike, I would just give to them as is prepared by myself with the handlebars turned, derailleur and chain removed and air let out of the tires. I thought it was very clever, Air Asia on the other hand didn’t share my admiration. The lackey "helping" me sternly repeated, there is no way they can accept the bike like this. After half a dozen times of this speech, and patiently and politely waiting for half an hour or over while he helped other people, I could only ask "I understand but what do you want me to do, please tell me what I can do". Lackey gives up and calls in the supervisor who frustratingly repeats the same phrase I had heard way too many times. Again, I say I understand, but what can I do. I give my story, that I am riding around SE Asia and there is no way to carry a large bicycle case, what am I to do. I please, we are both human beings, I am just trying to be on my way, please help me, pouring my heart out for any sympathy. None, the guy is without a shred of care. Out of nowhere though, for I don’t know what reason, why now, he says something…new. "You can go over to WRAPPING SERVICES". WRAPPING SERVICES?!? THERE’S A SERVIE FOR WRAPPING THAT YOU’RE JUST NOW TELLING ME ABOUT?!?!
Now, just recounting the story, I can feel my heart racing and blood pressure building. I cannot describe how frustrating an exchange this whole ordeal was.
So utterly upset that this man just now informed me of a service that would’ve avoided this whole mess, I harshly and swiftly lashed out at this disgusting person with an assault of every curse I could muster I figured actually he wouldn’t even know what most of it meant but he actually did and was really offended haha. Stormed off to "wrapping services" and two minutes and eight measly ringgit later ($2.40) my bike was covered in plastic wrap for me by two nice guys who smiled while they worked. The airline employee had explained to me they could not accept the bike because of the liability of the bike possibly damaging other peoples luggage. Now with its plastic wrap later, I’m still not sure how it made a lick of difference. If the bike was so dangerously sharp as to damage someone’s luggage, wouldn’t it be able to pierce less than a millimeter of plastic?

Back to give the now wrapped bike to check in. Apologized the man I had gone off on since there was no point in staying angry. I asked him to please understand where I was coming from, that he could have just simply told me that piece of information from the beginning but I’m nearly certain he still doesn’t understand at all.
Flight was at 10:40, doors were closed at 10:20, I was entering immigration at 10:10. Breezed through the exit stamp, waltzed through security (after surrendering a water bottle I hadn’t thought of, water is a deadly weapon remember) and pinned myself to the tail of the already formed boarding line boarding just in time. My god.
Flight was fortunately uneventful, two hours.
Arrived back in familiar BKK. Was funny to mentally compare myself to the last time I was in that exact same spot, I was so much more at ease; I could tell my pace was slower and I noticed so much more around me. Got my panniers (mysteriously minus the two straps that were holding them together) and my bike still in its magic shiny plastic wrap suit. Changed from sandals to shoes in preparation for the ride but changed my mind mid way and given the neat plastic package the bike was in I was rather sure I could fit it into the backseat of a taxi (I remember last time with the big box they demanded I use a large taxi and pay a ripoff 400B flat fee). This time the fare was only 160+50B which I was happy to pay instead of riding the unfamiliar route out of the airport on the highway in the heat.
Refill Now was just as I remembered it I was greeted by the same beautifully nice guy that saw me off the last time and I exclaimed "I’m back!!". Checked in and got the OK to store my bike and panniers there for the 3 weeks.
After a shower (in the nicest bathroom since I was last showering there), I knew my first mission, find som tam!! Didn’t take long, there was a stand just down the familiar side street I had walked dozens of times before but its funny, I had never even known it was there or what they had to offer because last time I was there, I knew NOTHING about Thai food or how to order anything. Same surroundings, same person, different mind.
Second mission, get money. ATM spat out money without hiccup, fortunately no problems like in Malaysia.
Feeling much more adventurous this time in the city, I hopped on a bus (hopefully) bound for the BTS (train) station. The buses don’t have fare machines or even coin boxes, they have a person that follows you to your seat or standing position and asks where you’re going and takes the fare. Took a bit to realize this system, its not like there’s instructions anywhere. Got off near the station but had to guess at it so still had a walk. Wanted to buy a rail pass this time; tried to get a student one but was denied because they said I looked older than 23; funny I thought since technically I still am 23 for another ten days. Ended up just buying a normal pass, so easy to use, just hold it up to the machine and walk through. Went to the Siam stop just to walk around and eat the various street food. Ended up walking to Pantip Plaza, the crazy computer mall, to indulge my curiosity and see how much netbooks were in Thailand compared to Malaysia. Strangely they were a bit cheaper. I still may end up getting one, we’ll see. I did get an SDHC card reader for 50B and a new screen protector custom cut for my Blackberry (which very strangely they refused to sell to me in Malaysia even if I wanted to cut it myself, was so bizarre).
Back at Refill, I sat in the lounge I’d sat for many hours before and sleepily ate an apple and some sweet rice from the small neighborhood night market. There were a few people I noticed around staying at the hostel but several older couples who looked uninteresting and a few more people who I said hello to but lacked the energy to pursue any further conversation (and perceived their disinterest).
Early sleep and late rise led to a staggering 12 hours rest which felt so amazing especially in such a luxurious setting and nice mattress!
Organized my backpack ready to checkout. Stood back to admire it all packed, it really is incredibly compact, I’m packing very light. Had to remind myself not to wear my one red shirt today, wearing red around Bangkok lately has political connotations I don’t want to get involved with.
Back to the lounge to treat myself with a coffee and the best rice porridge I’ve had in Asia; I had been trying to find one this good for the 2 months I had been gone with no success. Sipped the coffee and noticed something pleasant….it tasted good! Glanced over and smacked my forehead, they have a grinder, its REAL coffee! Real coffee and som tam whenever I want it, must be heaven.

Finished my meal, studied the city map and where I was headed (Thewet) and fielded a call from Rachel who was now at the airport! Honestly so excited, its going to be great to see her and show her all the wonders of SE Asia I’ve been so fortunate already to have received (and of course even more as well).
Pondered my transportation options to Thewet as the train doesn’t go all the way: bus, taxi, water taxi or train+taxi. Bus despite my adventurousness is still too complicated and intimidating, especially without a bus guide (which I want to buy. Taxi is easy but most expensive. Water taxi is alright but I’ll save that for when Rachels here. Scanned the area and thought maybe I could share a taxi with some people to cut costs. Had talked with two guys from the UK while I was eating but I seemed to be doing all the talking and walked away uninterested after a bit. Undeterred I noticed a guy sitting by himself with a drink. Why not say hi and ask what he was planning for the day, maybe he could share a taxi. So I did. Ended up having an hour plus conversation haha. Its so worth it just to take the time and (perceived) risk to talk to "random" people. Nice guy, Tom, on an around the world ticket, has already been to S. Africa and Vietnam (which he said he liked, first time in a while someone liked VN, refreshing). Met his friend Esha who with an infectious smile was a pleasure to talk to also. She’s on a seemingly open ended trip and is only a week in, much is still in store for her. Its exciting now to talk to people who have so much lying in wait still, I get excited for them as silly as that is.
Esha and her friend were to pick up their VN visas that day and had requested the free Refill tuk-tuk to take them to the BTS station, figured I’d take advantage of the free ride to the station at least and join them (Tom came along to get to MBK). The girls got off at their stop, Tom at this and I continued to Victory Monument.
Strolled through the cheapest sunglasses I’ve seen yet (50 baht) will have to remember that since I stupidly lost my cheap pair that were the replacements for my first pair. Cheap cheap food too, bought some 10 baht sweet wide ride noodles and 12 baht pineapple with pink salt. Lots of buses waiting to take people to destinations but without my bus guide, had no idea which to take. Strolled in the direction I wanted to take and at an open stretch of pavement, hailed a passing cab. 60B later and a conversation with a refreshingly pleasant cabbie, I was in the Thewet neighborhood that had sounded nice to me from internet accounts and also a few sentences in various guidebooks I have picked up in bars and guesthouses. It is a nice little neighborhood. Only a handful of guesthouses, right across from a wet market and various food stalls. Prices are a little high I thought after doing my shopping amongst three places; settled on an AC double for 400B, best deal I found.
Rained here! In the morning and then a lot more in the afternoon. Figured it would be dry still this far north but guess not. Hope at least its drier than Malaysia and south Thailand.
Tomorrow I am heading to the airport to meet Rachel when she arrives!! Maybe I’ll make an arrival sign (you know, the type with someone’s last name). We’ll head back here to Thewet and explore the city together!

18.Mar.09 South East Asia 2009