Angkor

NOTE: This post was written April 19 but posted April 21. Another updated post to come

 

    I could feel a few hairs stand on end as I was awoken by alarm to the darkness of predawn. Today, Angkor. Made certain to drag my difficult to wake self out of bed to get on the road to catch the morning light around the temple complex.
   Followed a sign straight up the main road for Angkor Wat but that was actually to be the last sign on the road (annoyingly despite a fork). Picked randomly and within 8k I spotted the telltale megabuses parked and knew I was there. I rode forward and with zero roadside fanfare, there it was, the iconic Angkor Wat. I just wanted to go up to it and kick its proverbial tires; was this actually it, was I here?
   Was readying myself to cross the bridge into the main area when I was asked for a ticket. Since there wasn’t an admission booth in sight on the road, I’d thought maybe I could buy one further on up; obviously incorrect though. I took some sort of back road that inadvertently lead to sneaking into the area ticketless. I was told I’d have to backtrack 6k and go to the only ticket office. Begrudgingly did so, losing prime morning light, and bought a 3 day pass for $40 (a huge sum for Cambodia but of course supposedly worth it; it’s unfortunate only a measly 15% of the funds actually goes to the site, the rest is sucked up into Sokha Hotel Co, the entity responsible for ticket administration, and general government bureaucracy and corruption).
   I returned again, this time legitimately, ticket in hand. The Angkor complex is massive, a dozen or more separate sites to explore. I just randomly pick the most famous, Angkor Wat, and decided to enter via the seldom used east bridge. Interesting bit of trivia I learned: it’s uncommon (if not unheard of) for a temple to have it’s main entrance positioned to the west as this signifies death. The history dudes (historians, if you must) have apparently decided that Angkor Wat was then both an active temple and intended tomb of the King.
   I had little idea what to expect really. I had saw Ayutthaya and Sukhothai in Thailand which were either Khmer in origin or inspired thereby, but what greeted me was a giant tier above anything I saw previously. This has to be the granddaddy of all temples. All the hype, quickly explained. Its the detail that really awestruck me. The bas reliefs I think are my favorite feature; such artistry, they’re so beautiful. Some are still in amazing condition too; others damaged by hasty acid washing Indian renovators in the 80s, others damaged by the more obvious passage of time.

   So, so cliché but there is just a sense of magic about the whole place. For me, I knew that at least some of that was just being in such an iconic world renown place. Surprising how much they let you just traipse all over; you can go through almost the entire structure studying every fine detail. I think this is what has made visiting the ruins in Thailand and now Cambodia such a great experience: there’s no velvet rope. It’s such an opposite experience to European or American historical sites where there’s a constant "look but don’t touch" attitude. But, as enjoyable as the laissez-faire option is I know its also a boon, I’ve seen it: people completely blasé about the preciousness of the ground and stone they step on. Posted an earlier picture of a group of obnoxious Europeans climbing all over an ancient Buddha statue (as Thai people looked on in disbelief). Giving people that much freedom unfortunately leads to further destruction. Oh well, I’m enjoying it while it lasts at least.
   Set off by bike for the next wonder to see. Ride was cut pretty short when my fork found its path interrupted by a moto. I was proceeding straight, they were turning left. You’d think that there would be at least some hint of yielding, myself being the through traffic, even in SE Asia, but nope, they just continued until I unexpectedly was on the ground. I was lucky, no injury at all, it was very low speed, I saw them, just didn’t think they would be that stupid. As when you’re hit, I immediately wanted to look at the culprit and yell "WHAT THE HELL?!" but I and her kept quiet, looking at each other but knowing speaking would be pointless. Unhurt like I said, but shaken; was my first crash the whole trip. Sat it out a few minutes and then was back on that horse.

  In the morning, was not a problem, but later in the day, the children pedaling silly tourist wares got pretty bad. I had heard about it but now I experienced it. Its so hard to keep telling these kids no: firstly, simply because they’re so persistent and repetitive about it but second, they’re adorable children that yank every heart attached fiber in your body. I did end up buying a guidebook which I was looking for (strangely a legit non photocopied one) but had to all day turn down bracelets, flutes, postcards, t-shirts, silk, drinks. Its a seriously trained operation though; these kids are business moguls. They have the whole cute kid thing going for them automatically but on top of that, they’ve amazingly learned all manner of things to impress potential buyers and up the cute factor exponentially. Nearly all I spoke with impressed me with their English, Spanish, French, Italian and Japanese. They recited from script "where are you from?" and if you said they’d US,  they’d name Washington DC, President Obama, your state’s capital and it’s major cities. Its frustrating and heartbreaking at the same time.

  By 3p, I was exhausted and just about "templed" out. I had been going nonstop the whole day from temple to temple in the often unsheltered heat. I wanted a sunset under my belt though; I’d go the whole day.

   Generally I felt like I was really lucky: there wasn’t nearly as many people as I pictured. At least there’s a few small upsides to a down economy and scorching uninviting heat.
   At Ta Thom I was randomly led around by a teenage kid, taking me on a mini tour of nice picture spots. I usually don’t like this kind of thing, I prefer my own assessment for pictures but it was actually worthwhile since he knew hard to find spots and led me to places I wouldn’t have comfortably ventured on my own. I figured this wasn’t all just a friendly gesture of kindness (although I really really hoped that it was) but I thought regardless, I’d invite him to eat lunch with me, my treat. My offer was turned down though with an awkward smile and he was insisting on a monetary donation. I was appreciative so I did want to thank him in some way but he kept turning down my lunch offer and not having any bills small enough I had to tell him sorry. Random acts of kindness do exist, just usually not in masses of tourists.

  Sunset arrived and I headed to Bayon inside Angkor Thom to explore in the glow of the fading sun. The smiling stone faces had a great light to them. Met a small boy trying to do the same "let me show you around" thing but with a much higher cuteness factor. Had to refuse but snapped his picture which he seemed happy about.

    
  Took a short ride north into a random dusty narrow road through villages. Its nice to know there’s a Cambodia outside of the tourist zones and I can attest their true differences.
  Tomorrow I’m thinking maybe of actually catching the sunrise at Angkor Wat and then heading 30-40k north to a landmine museum and Baneay Srei temple (which is supposed to be nice although another $20 unfortunately). I don’t think I can strike up the will to do it by bike again though, if I can, I’ll hire one of the many moto drivers as long as he can pick me up early enough.
   Found a good Indian restaurant in town just off Pub St called Taste of India (I swear there’s an Indian restaurant in every large city on earth with that name). Their masala tea was really good.
Such a long day, will sleep like a log tonight, guaranteed.

19.Apr.09 South East Asia 2009